News from My Table
Houston’s Top 10 Wine Lists Awards 2006
By Charles M. Bear Dalton
(Editor’s note: Our 11th Annual Top 10 Wine Lists Awards were announced on Wednesday, May 24, at a party hosted at Joan Wich & Co. Gallery on Montrose. Many thanks to Joan Wich and Paul Brockman, as well as Jim Manning’s A Catered Affair for great food and service. My Table’s wine-list awards program is graciously underwritten by Icon Estates.)
We had two sets of ties in our 11th annual Top 10 Wine Lists competition this year. Our guest judges Robyn Tinsley, Martin Korson and Randall McCrea provide the commentary, in addition to my own. Here’s how the numbers shake out.
9 Our first tie was between Perry’s Steakhouse (Sugar Land) and Bank Jean-Georges, which were tied at number nine.
In voting Bank #3 on his card, Martin Korson writes, “Finally Bank has a wine list as grand as the restaurant itself. This is the kind of well-thought-out list that a Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant needs. While showing a balanced selection of classic wines, there are many wines from outside the common box that had to have been hunted down. Obviously someone is thinking about wine here.” Robyn Tinsley adds, “First class all the way, with an extensive selection of top-tier wines that beautifully reflect the inventive, artisanal Jean-Georges standard.”
About Perry’s Steakhouse, Randy McCrea writes, “This list provides excellent selections to complement the steaks, chops and seafood items of the menu. The wines are well organized alphabetically within geographic categories. Additionally, 23 wines by the glass (BTG), 48 half-bottles and nine large-format offerings provide outstanding choices for the consumer.” The Perry’s group (especially Perry’s wine director Mario Plaza) is doing a super job of bringing great wine programs to suburban settings, and this Sugar Land location is the brightest star of an overall excellent bunch. Kudos to all involved.
7 At number seven, we have our other tie, between the Medical Center’s revitalized Trevisio and The Height’s Shade.
Sean Beck, the dean of Houston sommeliers, does it again with Trevisio making My Table’s top 10 in its first year under the management of Backstreet/Hugo’s/Prego proprietor Tracy Vaught. Tinsley writes, “No longer just a pharmaceutical rep expense-account kind of place, Trevisio has become a great food and wine destination. Love the interesting Italian selections that go beyond the usual Chianti suspects.” McCrea adds, “This is a great, creative list for a ‘new’ restaurant that pairs well with the food. The list is well organized by price within each descriptive category, easing the selection process, especially for lunch-time diners. Sixteen BTG selections and 14 half-bottle offerings give the consumer plenty of choices in addition to the 117 full bottles.”
In ranking Shade #3 on her card, Tinsley notes, “A great example of the wine list vibe matching the mood of the place—all funky, uncompromising, Heights eclecticism—and at great prices.” Korson adds, “Very clean, well-written list with an easy-to-follow layout, without getting eye fatigue just trying to read it. Very interesting dessert wines BTG, though no half-bottles.”
6 Garnering votes from three judges, perennial top-10 winner Mark’s American Cuisine comes in at number six. Picking Mark’s as #5 on her card, Tinsley writes, “The thoughtfulness and precision that shines in Mark’s food also comes through in this wine list—excellent selection of boutique and hard-to-find wines at reasonable prices.” I think Mark’s has the easiest-to-shop format of our top 10. I am pleased to see new sommelier Emily Resling making her mark on an already excellent program. Korson concludes, “I am always amazed at how many wines Mark’s can fit on their list and inside their building.”
5 Laurier Cafe retains its top-five status for the second year in a row. Ranking Laurier #4 on her card, Tinsley writes, “Small, focused list with loads of hidden treasures. Has an eccentric, slightly off-center sensibility that makes it fun—and very good prices, too.” With Laurier #1 on his card, Korson agrees. “The best match between the type of restaurant and the wine list that I have seen in a long time. Here is an unpretentious neighborhood place with a perfectly well-matched and balanced wine list. All of the wines seem to have been thought out and there is reason for each of them to be there. A terrific half-bottle selection and a wonderful variety in the wines BTG. Well done.”
4 In the top 10 each year it has been open, Hugo’s now moves into the top five. In making Hugo’s her #1 pick, Tinsley comments, “Easily one of my favorite wine lists in town—in or out of this competition. Fun and adventurous, just like Hugo’s food, with sommelier Sean Beck consistently adding great bargains.” The list at Hugo’s fits the cuisine and the style of the place. Owners Hugo Ortega and Tracy Vaught and sommelier Sean Beck have reason to be proud.
3 Backstreet Cafe appears in our top 10 for the sixth year in a row. I scored Backstreet #1 on my card for Sean Beck’s assembled list that perfectly fits the cuisine, the indoor-outdoor ambience; offers good organization with notes on selected feature wines; offers a great wine BTG selection; and is one of the most fairly priced lists in town. McCrea agrees, writing, “Sean Beck does it again with an outstanding wine list pegged to the restaurant’s eclectic and varied food items. This list is easy to read, understand and navigate, and within each category is organized by price. Over 36 BTG wines are offered and, to Sean’s credit, most are less than $10 per glass. Plus, there are 26 half-bottle selections.”
2 With votes from three judges, Rainbow Lodge returns to our top 10 after a year’s absence. In making Rainbow Lodge his #1 pick, McCrea writes, “Damn, what a list! Excellent choices pegged to the food, easy to read and navigate, moderate pricing, organized alphabetically within each category, 48 BTG offerings, 16 half-bottles. Gee, what’s not to like? David Orchard has done an outstanding job.” Korson agrees, “I tend to look for the smaller easier-to-read lists as I get lazier and older, but this ‘phone book’ list stood out. It is well laid-out, with a consistent and logical theme. Many other lists were so inconsistent in their layout I was getting confused just trying to read them. Very good coverage around the world and, as an added bonus, many of the reds are older and not current vintages, which generates great values.” The new format is also much easier to hold than the previous captain’s books.
1 With three #2 votes and a #4, Cafe Rabelais is the only wine list to appear on every judge’s score card. Cafe Rabelais retains its number-one ranking for the third year in a row. Korson says, “Rabelais consistently produces one of the most complete lists that completely cover one country. But what also sets it apart is the volume of education one can get from just reading the list. Anyone studying wine should try to get a copy just for their studies of the French wine regions.” Tinsley writes, “All-French, with an extensive array of wines from every corner of France. This is a big wine list, but justifiably so.” McCrea adds, “This all-French menu and wine list is outstanding. Several large-format bottles and about 45 half-bottles are offered, along with several BTG (it would be nice to see more) and dessert wines.” I like everything about this program. The list is perfect for both the menu and the venue. Chris Paul’s passion shines in every detail of a list that is quirky, interesting, fun, educational and fairly priced.
SPECIAL AWARDS
Houston’s Best Small Wine List
Shade
Houston’s Best Wine-By-The-Glass Program
Truluck’s Steak & Stone Crab
Houston’s Best-Value Wine List
Shade
THANKS TO THE 82 RESTAURANTS THAT SUBMITTED THEIR WINE LISTS.
17/Alden Hotel
713 Restaurant, Lounge, Sushi Bar
Amazon Grill
Amerigo’s Grille (The Woodlands)
Arcodoro
Arturo’s Uptown Italiano
Ashiana
Backstreet Cafe
Bank Jean-Georges
Benjy’s
Beso
Bistro 829 (Katy)
Bistro Calais
Bistro Le Cep
Brenner’s Steakhouse
Brio
Buca di Beppo
Cafe Benedicte
Cafe Empress
Cafe Rabelais
Capital Grille
Carmelo’s
Chez Georges
Ciro’s
Clementine’s Restaurant
Cova
Crapitto’s Cucina Italiana
Dos Brisas (Brenham)
El Meson
Farrago
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar
Glass Wall
Gravitas
Hasta La Pasta (Spring)
Hugo’s
Kiran’s
Kirby’s Prime Steakhouse
La Griglia
Laidback Manor
Laurier Cafe
Le Mistral
Lynn’s Steakhouse
Macaroni Grill
Maggiano’s Little Italy
Maloney’s Steakhouse
Massa’s
Mark’s American Cuisine
McCormick & Schmick’s
Mingalone Italian Bar & Grill
Mockingbird Bistro
Morton’s of Chicago
Nino’s
Noe/Omni Houston
Patrenella’s Ristorante Italiano
Perry’s Italian Grille (Clear Lake)
Perry’s Steakhouse & Grille (Champions)
Perry’s Steakhouse & Grille (Clear Lake)
Perry’s Steakhouse & Grille (Sugar Land)
Perry’s Steakhouse & Grille (The Woodlands)
Pesce
Prego
Quattro/The Four Seasons
Ra Sushi
Rainbow Lodge
The Remington/St. Regis Hotel
Rickshaw
Rioja
Ristorante Tuscany/Marriott (The Woodlands)
Rockfish
Shade
Skyline Bar & Grill/Hilton Americas
Spencer’s/Hilton Americas
Strip House
Sullivan’s Steakhouse
Taste of Texas
Trevísio
Truluck’s Seafood, Steak & Crab House
Uni Sushi (The Woodlands)
Via Torino
Vincent’s
Vittorio’s (Sugar Land)
Zula
HOUSTON WINE LIST HALL OF FAME
In an unprecedented move we are initiating two newcomers to our Wine List Hall of Fame this year.
Cafe Rabelais has now won at least a share of “Houston’s Best Wine List” title for three years running—pretty impressive for a fiercely French restaurant in conservative Houston. Of course, Houston has always embraced great effort and great characters. The list here is instructive, informative, user friendly, absolutely appropriate and complete. It is perfect for the restaurant, and it reveals owner Chris Paul’s passion for wine, food and all things French. Cafe Rabelais now joins Cafe Annie (2001) and Brennan’s (2003) in our Houston Wine List Hall of Fame.
Sean Beck is the driving force behind three of the wine lists that figure into this year’s Top 10. Sean has had Backstreet Cafe in the top 10 for six years and Hugo’s for four years (which is how long Hugo’s has been open). This year he took over Trevisio and has already installed there the same sort of wine program that earned him accolades for Backstreet and Hugo’s. While all three program share some common elements, each is appropriate in the full sense of that word as it applies to wine lists, and each list demonstrates Beck’s passion, dedication and knowledge. He is our first individual to be installed in the Wine List Hall of Fame.
THE JUDGES
BEAR DALTON, wine-list competition coordinator, is Spec’s fine wine buyer and My Table magazine’s wine and spirits editor. He teaches wine-appreciation classes for Rice University’s School of Continuing Studies, the Alliance Française and other organizations.
RANDY McCREA recently relocated to Georgetown, Texas, where he continues his avocation as a wine writer and educator. He has been studying and appreciating wine most of his adult life. He is the owner of A Class of Wine, LLC, one of the Southwest’s premier companies providing wine education, appreciation and writing services. McCrea is a regular contributor to My Table magazine.
ROBYN TINSLEY is managing editor of WineSkinny.com, an online wine magazine that makes it fun to try wines. As a co-founder of the Wine Skinny in 1999, Tinsley’s goal is to make wine accessible and enjoyable for everyone, from beginners to connoisseurs. Tinsley also writes for publications like BestDressedMeals.com and Wine Enthusiast.
MARTIN KORSON is the “resident wino” at Central Market and former sommelier at My Table magazine’s Hall of Fame award-winner Brennan’s. He has also developed wine education seminars for several fortune 500 companies.
Note: The article above is just an excerpt. To read more about the wine lists awards, the judges and the restaurants that submitted their lists for judging, please see Issue #73 (June-July 2006), on newsstands now.
