Inside My Table #90 | Restaurant listings
Along Washington Avenue
Once known for a somewhat motley assortment of taquerias and used car outlets – not to mention Houston’s fine old Glenwood Cemetery – the regentrifying Washington Avenue is now home to some of Houston’s best and hottest restaurants. We’re hoping, though, that some of the old funk remains. Note: We have so many restaurants to tell you about that there is no room here for all the bars along Washington’s 3.3-mile stretch, including Porch Swing Pub, Pearl Bar and The Social. Don’t worry – you’ll easily spot them.
In the listings below, we’re traveling from west to east. The magazine includes a map with this feature.
1. CANDELARI’S PIZZERIA, 6002 Washington Ave. east of Westcott, 832-200-1474. Sure, Candelari’s is a well-known pizza spot – eating here makes us feel like we’re in college again – but it’s perhaps even better known for its namesake sausage, which you can buy in bulk and take home.
2. BENJY’S ON WASHINGTON, 5922 Washington Ave. east of Westcott , 713-868-1131. This sizzling newcomer is a spin-off of the Benjy’s in the Village, but larger. Chef Michael Potowski respects the menu of the original, but adds a few Asian twists of his own.
3. LOS DOS AMIGOS, 5720 Washington Ave. west of T.C. Jester, 713- 862-0462. This sweet little place, now more than 30 years old, represents the old Washington Avenue. The Tex-Mex fare won’t astonish you, but it’s homey and fondly regarded by the neighborhood.
4. EL TIEMPO, 5602 Washington Ave. at T.C. Jester, 713-681-3645. Big, brash and shaking up potent margaritas, this was one of the first of the “new breed” of Washington Avenue restaurants. Popular with a date-night crowd as well as the locals.
5. COVA, 5555 Washington Ave., at T.C. Jester, 713-868-3366. The sibling to Kirby Drive’s original Cova, this is a popular gathering spot for wine-lovers who want to try a flight of something esoteric, perhaps with a charcuterie platter or a few “small plates.”
6. CATALAN, 5555 Washington Ave. at T.C. Jester, 713-426-4260. Not a place for quiet conservation, it is, instead, designed for loud and somewhat raucous enjoyment, for celebrations, for drinking too much and eating way too much of chef Chris Shepherd’s deliciously innovative Spanish food. Great wine list, too.
7. BRIGHT & EARLY COFFEE, 4825 Washington Ave. at Durham, 713-861-9588. An alternative to the ubiquitous Starbucks, this is a little drive-thru, perfect for grabbing some coffee and a kolache on the way to work.
8. SOMA, 4820 Washington Ave. at Durham, 713-861-2726. This trendy Japanese restaurant – it’s gorgeous inside – has a sushi bar and a kitchen that sends out an ambitious menu of cooked foods. It can be intensely noisy at peak hours.
9. EL REY TAQUERIA, 910 Shepherd Dr. at Washington, 713-802-9145. Probably Houston’s only Cuban/Mexican restaurant with a drive-through window. While the interior is nothing to write home about, El Rey’s chicken tortilla soup is. The key is the rich broth enhanced by chilies, in which huge chunks of chicken, avocado, tomato and tortilla strips all swim happily. A sublime bowl of soup.
10. MAX’S WINE DIVE, 4720 Washington Ave. at Shepherd, 713-880-8737. What was Houston’s hottest restaurant at its opening is still, remarkably, nearly as hot. Upscaled versions of classic American food by executive chef Michael Dei Maggi reign here. Yankee Pot Roast for $24? The young attractive crowd, attracted by a great wine list and the young attractive crowd, couldn’t care less about the price.
11. MOLINA’S, 4720 Washington Ave. just east of Shepherd, 713-862-0013. An old-school Tex-Mex place that serves up fajitas, “Nancy Ames Nachos” and queso, plus tankerfuls of margaritas that, sorry to say, we find artificial tasting. The palapa out front is very pleasant after work as the day cools down.
12. RAIA’S, 4500 Washington Ave. at Patterson, 713-861-1042. Interesting addition to the area. It’s an Italian deli and steam-table restaurant, plus a source for Italian groceries (e.g. imported pasta, olives, anchovies, balsamic vinegar). The nice patio out front is beginning to attract some traffic.
13. TAQUERIA LA FLOR, 4328 Washington Ave. at Thompson, 713-880-1981. You could easily rush by this modest spot. It’s a little washed-out looking from the street, but the home-cooked Mexican food (including breakfast) is worth a stop and the people who run it are lovely.
14. PATRENELLA’S, 813 Jackson Hill just south of Washington Ave., 713-863-8223. Just off Washington Avenue, this charmer (run by patriarch Sammy Patrenella) has legions of fans. Simple Italian-American cooking – spaghetti and meatballs, ravioli, fried calamari, etc. – and a personable waitstaff. Bocce court in the front garden.
15. CHATTER’S CAFE & BISTRO, 140 S. Heights Blvd. just south of Washington, 713-864-8080. There’s a little of everything on the menu here, from Greek salads and club sandwiches to lamb chops and kebabs. Nice patio out front. Kobain (a bar) is adjacent; you can order Chatter’s food here, too.
16. STAR PIZZA, 77 Harvard St. just north of Washington Ave., 713-869-1241. Houston’s quirky, homegrown pizzeria is famous for its Joe’s Pizza, a garlic-and-spinach favorite. This is a fun scene for couples as well as families.
17. CATALINA COFFEE, 2201 Washington Ave. east of Sawyer, 713-861-8448. Serious coffee is the draw at this shrine to caffeine. Cool coffeehouse setting, occasional “Cupping 101” courses, free WiFi with purchase.
18. THE CORKSCREW, 1919 Washington Ave. near Sawyer, 713-864-9463. With more than 300 wines to choose from and a nice assortment of meat and cheese trays and paninis to nibble on, this wine bar is a lovely laid-back hangout, perfect for a drink either before or after an evening out.
19. BEAVER’S ICE HOUSE, 2310 Decatur just south of Washington Ave., 713-864-2328. So-o-o-, it’s not actually an ice house. Beaver’s is Monica Pope’s experiment in downscale food made with upscale ingredients. Jonathan Jones is cooking, and his barbecue, meatloaf and sloppy joes satisfy a grateful clientele. Great beer list, too.
20. AVENUE GRILL, 1017 Houston Ave. just north of Washington Ave., 713-228-5138. Famous for their chicken-fried steak, hamburgers and countrified table selections, this old-timer is close to downtown and popular with jurors, cops, judges and working people of all variety.
