Inside My Table #89 | Excerpt
Letter From Santa Fe—30 Restaurants in 30 Days
By Randy McCrea
Restaurants are not in short supply in Santa Fe. The city boasts more than 175 restaurants, not counting fast-food establishments and pizza joints. During our recent month-long stay in Santa Fe, we sampled 30 of the city’s eateries.
What is in short supply in Santa Fe is parking. In this high-density city (population about 65,000), there’s a chronic shortage of parking, even at most top-of-the-line restaurants. One tony restaurant near our rental house offered only three parking spaces!
The area offers much to see and do: beautiful countryside, an eccentric population, art galleries, museums, historic towns and pueblos, access to Native American arts and crafts and an idiosyncratic local cuisine.
Obviously, Southwestern/Mexican/New Mexican styles dominate in the kitchen, with chile pepper-influenced cuisine found almost everywhere. But many other types of great food in charming environments is also available. In the listing and evaluations that follow, we left out barbecue places (after all, who can compete with Texas?), fast-food emporiums and old standbys that everyone already knows, like The Pink Adobe and La Casa Sena. But some great bakeries are included separately.
KEY
After the name of each restaurant is a rating, 5 being best, based on food quality, service, wine list, ambience and overall value for price charged. The average price of a meal for two — breakfast [B], lunch [L] or dinner [D], excluding alcohol, tax, and tip — is estimated using the following scale:
$ less than $20 for two
$$ $21 to $40 for two
$$$ $41 to $60 for two
$$$$ more than $60 for two
Unless otherwise indicated, major credit cards are accepted.
The 30 restaurants are listed in alphabetical order.
315 RESTAURANT & WINE BAR (5)
Casual and chic, this French restaurant serves outstanding food, such as squash blossom beignets with local goat cheese and braised rabbit shank. The wine list is heavily French and offers a nice variety at reasonable prices. Weather permitting, the outdoor patio is the place to be.
D: $$$. Beer & wine
315 Old Santa Fe Trail at East Alameda, 505-986-9190
BERT’S LA TAQUERIA (2)
The simple but colorful surroundings are inviting. And there’s plenty of parking for a change. But the New Mexican food, although authentic, is so simply served as to be almost uninteresting. Our lamb and chicken tacos were served unadorned and, though tasty, left us wishing for a few garnishes.
L: $$. Beer & wine
416 Agua Fria near Montezuma, 505-988-5991
BLUE CORN CAFE & BREWERY (2.5)
Much like a large Bennigan’s but with its own brew facilities, the Blue Corn serves up American and Mexican foods along with its eight own beers on tap, plus others. The tortilla soup and Southwest Cobb salad were reasonably priced and tasty, but nothing distinguished.
L: $. Full-service bar
4056 Cerrillos Rd. at Rodeo Rd., 505-438-1800, and 133 W. Water St. at Sandoval, 505-984-1800
BLUE HERON AT SUNRISE SPRINGS (4.5)
Located about eight miles south of Santa Fe in La Cienega, this restaurant is hard to find, but worth the trip and effort. Dine inside if you must, but the outdoor tables by the bubbling springs are outstanding. Our fresh halibut with farmers’ market green beans was great. And surprise of surprises, there’s an extensive wine list (100-plus selections) in this out-of-the-way charmer.
L: $$$. Full-service bar
242 Los Pinos Rd., 505-471-3600, La Cienega
CAFE PASQUAL’S (3)
Unless you arrive early, regardless of meal, it’s still SRO. Our breakfast of hotcakes and maple syrup and red chile with corn on fried polenta with poached egg did not disappoint. Dozens of New Mexican entrees are offered all day in a Spanish hacienda environment.
B: $$. Beer & wine
121 Don Gaspar Ave. at Water St., 505-983-9340
CHOW’S ASIAN BISTRO (4)
This place is so pretty and squeaky clean (even the bathrooms) that you’re almost scared to drop a crumb (or a noodle). We ordered a Vietnamese vegetable roll and chicken with vegetables and noodles, and we had plenty for two. A delightful find in an unassuming shopping center.
L: $$. Beer & wine
720 St. Michael’s Dr. in the Del Sol Plaza, 505-471-7120
THE CLUB AT HOTEL ST. FRANCIS (3)
“The Club” is merely the name for the hotel’s inside/outside dining room. The outdoor patio is quiet, semi-private and pretty with flowers, and inside is very stately and quiet. The chicken Caesar salad and mushroom omelet we ordered were both very fine and the service was good.
L: $$. Full-service bar
210 Don Gaspar Ave. at Water St., 505-983-5700
THE COMPOUND RESTAURANT (5)
Clean, crisp and white table-clothed, this culinary mecca provides great food and service in a quiet reserve amongst the Canyon Road art galleries. Try the lobster salad or grilled salmon along with a selection from the extensive wine list. We enjoyed the patio/garden dining.
L: $$$. Full-service bar
653 Canyon Rd. north of Garcia, 505-982-4353
CATAMOUNT BAR & GRILL (3)
More enticing than its name implies, this clean and smoke-free grill offers a quiet break from the downtown hubbub. We tried many others, but Catamount’s green chile with pork stew was a standout. Good for people watching, too, if you grab a patio table.
L: $. Full-service bar
125 E. Water St. near Shelby, 505-988-7222
COYOTE CAFE (4)
This famous and widely publicized two-in-one restaurant has been around for years, but keeps re-inventing itself at its casual rooftop cantina (Latin/Southwestern/Cuban food) and more serious restaurant, long famous for its Southwestern specialties.
D: $$$. Full-service bar
132 W. Water Street near Sandoval, 505-983-1615
DIEGO’S CAFE & BAR (2)
Located in a popular shopping center with several other food establishments, this Mexican restaurant was one of the few offering different kinds of salsas, but the food was just so-so. Our chile rellenos was filling, but not out of this world. Feels like a chain operation.
L: $. Full-service bar
192 Paseo de Peralta in the DeVargas Center, 505-983-5101
DINNER FOR TWO (5)
One of the most unassuming, but best finds in town. This family-owned and operated Continental restaurant is charming, sparkling clean and oh-so-friendly you’ll think you’re at home. Try the lobster bisque and the seafood platter with a calamari salad that’s magnificent.
D: $$$. Beer & wine
106 N. Guadalupe near San Francisco, 505-820-2075
EL FAROL (3)
Old, quaint and located in the middle of the Canyon Road galleries. But we were disappointed that El Farol didn’t live up to its reputation. Some menu items were attention-getting, however, such as the fried avocado with salsa and the Serrano ham tapas.
L: $$. Full-service bar
808 Canyon Rd. north of Garcia, 505-983-9912
JINJA ASIA CAFE (4.5)
An outstanding blend of Thai, Vietnamese, Malaysian and Japanese food influences. A spicy chicken noodle bowl is just one example of the fun cuisine. The softly lit ambience in the bar and dining areas offers a feeling of easy seclusion. Patio dining also available.
D: $$. Full-service bar
510 Guadalupe in the North DeVargas Center, 505-982-4321
LA BOCA (2)
Specializing in tapas and small plates, this black and white restaurant has plain walls, small tables and expensive wines for what is received. The food was good, but didn’t knock our socks off. A popular place that we believe is over-rated.
L: $$$. Beer & wine
72 W. Marcy Street at Washington, 505-982-3433
LA CHOZA (4)
Hard to find and unassuming on the outside, this Mexican restaurant blossoms inside with delicious food and colorful walls and artwork. Our chicken-stuffed sopaipilla and chicken chalupa were outstanding. The best overall New Mexican food we tasted.
L: $$. Beer & wine
905 Alarid Street at Cerrillos Rd., 505-982-0909
LAS FUENTES AT THE BISHOP’S LODGE (2)
This well-publicized restaurant north of town at the Bishop’s Lodge Resort and Spa came through with good food, but failed with very slow service, even though not busy with patrons. The outside patio dining overlooking the grounds and pool is nice.
L: $$. Full-service bar
1297 Bishop’s Lodge Road, 3 miles from downtown Santa Fe, 505-819-4035
LUMINARIA AT THE INN AT LORETTO (3.5)
The former Baleen restaurant has been redesigned, the menu updated and the prices increased. Try the spring green pea soup, the grilled prawns and the barbecued short ribs covered with sweet and spicy sauce. Good service, but very expensive wine list and entrees.
D: $$$$. Full-service bar
211 Old Santa Fe Trail at E. Alameda, 505-984-7915
MAUKA (4)
Very innovative Euro-Asian cuisine in a small, intimate setting. We enjoyed the tomato gazpacho with pickled ginger, organic arugula puree and smoked salt, as well as grilled escolar over a sauté of local yellow wax beans, golden beets, mustard greens and fingerling potatoes, all dressed with a truffled pineapple vinaigrette. Small wine list.
D: $$$. Beer & wine
544 Agua Fria near Montezuma, 505-984-1969
MUSEUM HILL CAFE (2.5)
Located on Museum Hill, the cafe offers American and Mexican foods in a simple setting with a great view of the hills and mountains in the distance. Simple, but good food. Save room for the delicious bread pudding, only bested by that of Brennan’s in Houston.
L: $. Beer & wine
710 Camino Lejo on Museum Hill, 505-820-1776
O’KEEFFE CAFE (4)
Located next door to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, a large patio dining area offers a wide variety of Southwestern cuisine and a great wine list. A smaller seating area also is available inside. Try the grilled salmon salad and any of the desserts.
L: $$. Beer & wine
217 Johnson St. between Guadalupe & Grant, 505-946-1065
PEPE’S TACOS (3.5)
Not found on most tourists’ restaurant lists, this former taco stand is now a stand-alone restaurant that makes everything to order. So don’t be in a hurry, whether eating in or getting takeout. But the food is great and all the ingredients extremely fresh. Simple ambience.
L: $. No alcohol
1945 Cerrillos Rd. at Isleta, 505-982-3548
PRANZO ITALIAN GRILL (4)
Enter and be transported to an Italian restaurant located in a Mexican village. The tomato/basil/mozzarella panini and seafood pasta we enjoyed paired well with a white wine ordered from the by-the-glass list. A very clean, crisp, comfortable environment with excellent service.
L: $$. Full-service bar
540 Montezuma St. near Guadalupe in the Sanbusco shopping center, 505-984-2645
SANTA FE SCHOOL OF COOKING (4)
We went for a class on New Mexico wines, but came away loving the foods presented as well as the wines. Duck tamales were outstanding, goat cheese with green chile jelly and bread was tasty, and the apricot empanadas were delicious. Many other food classes are offered. Visit www.santafeschoolcooking.com.
L: $$$. Wine only
116 W. San Francisco St. near Lincoln, 505-983-4511
TORTILLA FLATS (3)
Recently remodeled, this casual Mexican restaurant serves meals all day long. The red chile-rubbed pork ribs and chicken tacos we enjoyed are highly recommended. Generous portions at reasonable prices.
L: $$. Full-service bar
3139 Cerrillos Rd. at Calle de Cielo, 505-471-8685
VIGA AT LA POSADA (4.5)
Formerly Fuego, the new Viga restaurant is an icon of elegance, quality food and fine service. Try the lobster salad and goat cheese with prosciutto small plates, and the shrimp with sweet plum sauce and noodles. Nice wine list. Somewhat expensive, but worth it.
L: $$$. Full-service bar
330 E. Palace Ave. at La Posada Resort & Spa, 505-986-0000
ZIA DINER (4)
Whether dining at the bar or in the bar area, on the covered patio or in the main dining room near the open kitchen, you’ll find an amazing variety of foods at this all-day restaurant. Try the corn and green chile quiche, the huge plate of nachos or the grilled shrimp on fancy slaw.
L: $$. Full-service bar
326 South Guadalupe at Montezuma, 505-988-7008
SIDEBAR: SOME OUTSTANDING BAKERIES
The following bakery/restaurants were not rated because we ate no meals there. But we did pick up some amazing pastries and good bagels, so we thought you’d want to know.
BAGELMANIA
Good bagels and scones at the bakery, plus a deli and full-service restaurant for breakfast and lunch. Don’t let the high chain-link fence around the whole property scare you away.
420 Catron Street near N. Guadalupe, 505-982-8900
CAFE PARIS
Delightful pastries and breakfast croissants are available daily at this full-service restaurant that is open all day from 8 am. French and English spoken.
31 Burro Alley at San Francisco, 505-986-9162
CLAFOUTIS FRENCH BAKERY & RESTAURANT
Be sure to brush up on your French when you visit this small establishment with limited parking. But the pain au chocolat and cinnamon stick rolls, not to mention a wide array of pastries, are worth the challenge of getting in and out.
402 N. Guadalupe near Catron, 505-988-1809
