Inside My Table #89 | Excerpt
Good-bye, Food Trends—Hello, Food Trends
Compiled by Rose Cahalan, My Table intern
Looking back and looking ahead is an ever-popular pastime in the first few weeks of the New Year. What did we like or deplore in 2008? What are our hopes for 2009? We don’t have any psychics on our masthead – well, actually, we do have one talented astrologer who regularly writes food essays for us – but we thought we’d ask several Houston foodies to share their thoughts on 2008’s trends, as well as look ahead to 2009.
DAVID LUNA, executive chef, Shade
“I see the availability of lesser-known species of fish more often these days at the restaurant level, but I’d like to see them more often at the public retail market, too. Some of these species are more abundant and may help take pressure off the red snapper population.”
CARL WALKER, GM, Brennan’s of Houston
“I want to see scientists work on cures and techniques to heal people and leave the cooking and farming to the chefs and farmers. I’m afraid that traditions from our grandparents – like how to cure meat and put up summer’s harvest for the off-season – will slip away. I think people want to remember real, classic foods and tastes that bring back great memories.
“And, of course, I wish to see Brennan’s rise back up from the charred bricks left by Hurricane Ike to serve again the great Creole cuisine from our Texas ranches, gardens and farmers’ markets.”
BEAR DALTON, fine wine buyer, Spec’s Liquor
“In 2009, I’d like to see even more ingredient-driven cooking with a willingness to combine the best ingredients from around the world to create great meals. ‘Local’ doesn’t make it the best or even better, it just makes it local. If the local food is great, fine. But if you can get a better version of the ingredient from elsewhere, that’s even better. I’d like to see more restaurants offering more and better soups made with flavorful old-style stocks – have you tried the soups at Charivari? – rather than based on all-too-ubiquitous chicken stock.
“I hope the trend toward really loud restaurant interiors with no sound-absorbing materials reverses. As much as I like the food at Laurier, Glass Wall, Reef, etc., they are too loud to carry on a conversation with any but your closest neighbor at the table. I’d like to see less of things like roast pork belly and lardons in dishes for the same reasons I’d like to see less cigar smoking. And does Houston really need another steakhouse?”
JANICE SCHINDELER, market vendor, owner of Words & Food
“I would like to see more support for the city’s farmers’ markets, less-fat people and more fit folks, and more serious vegetarian options on menus.”
JUDY HENRICHSEN, sales manager, Brothers Produce
“In 2008 the media spent a great deal of time saying that ‘tomatoes are dangerous’ and ‘your salsa could kill you.’ The year 2009 would be stellar if they would explain that washing your produce well kills bacteria, most of which can’t enter through the cell walls of produce. Also, most outbreaks are not reported by the CDC until three to four weeks after they occur. That produce is long gone from anyone’s shelves. Unless, does someone actually keep their tomatoes for five weeks before eating?”
RENE ZAMORE, executive director, Greater Houston Restaurant Association
“Everyone from quick-service giants to independent operators jumped on the sustainability bandwagon in 2008. Restaurants increasingly are looking at non-traditional ingredients and sourcing, conserving energy and minimizing waste. Let’s keep it going in 2009 and save restaurants some money, while we’re at it.”
JERRY LASCO, owner, The Tasting Room
“I’d like to see more creative yet authentic concepts. Houston could use more unique and interesting places that evoke a sense of place and style. A perfect example is Ouisie’s Table. It’s a Houston classic, and every time I’m there I’m magically transported to the genteel Deep South.”
JACQUES FOX, chef, Miramont Country Club, Bryan
“For the future, I’m most worried about the depletion of endangered fish species. I also think it is imperative that chefs around the world support their local growers and maintain regional styles of food. I’m hopeful about classic innovation – let’s go back to good, modern, American cuisine with a touch of sophistication but traditional flavors and local growers.”
JOHN SHEELY, chef/owner, Mockingbird Bistro
“I think you will see more smaller restaurants opening. Less square footage means lower rent and less payroll.”
ANN CRISWELL, retired Houston Chronicle food editor
“Food trends seem almost as volatile as the stock market – up one day and down the next. Among 2008’s highly hyped: açai (ah-sah-EE), this year’s super-food; green food, which is to say organic, local, safe; exotic fruits such as mangosteen, yumberries, blood oranges and pomegranates; whole grain chips and pastas; chipotle salsas; exotic ice creams (I’d like to see ginger, lemon and cinnamon ice cream go mainstream). Also on the uptick: prepared packaged ingredients to make quick, fresh meals; frozen specialty meals and Crockpot combinations, and sliders (miniature hamburgers). Comfort foods will hang around during the recession. So will cocktails. Also noted: the proliferation of sandwich shop chains and juice bars.”
RANDY FOURNIER, president, Houston Food & Beverage Managers Association
“I’d like to see more reasonable restaurant wine prices, a larger selection of sharable appetizers, and smaller entree and salad portions.”
ALEX BRENNAN-MARTIN, owner, Brennan’s of Houston
“More: Hospitality. I’ve had some of the most wonderful experiences dining out in other restaurants in Houston after Hurricane Ike and think our front-of-the-house people are among the most genuinely friendly anywhere. Convivial, concise service stays with customers long after they’ve forgotten exactly what they’ve eaten.
“Less: Silly food. I was lucky to know Julia Child and was at dinner with her and my mother some years ago when a plate of architecturally and artistically presented food was served to her by a very enthusiastic young man. Mrs. Child was polite to the young man, but when he left she turned to us and said, ‘My mother always told me not to play with our food.’”
