Inside My Table #87 | Excerpt
Something Cheesy Going On
Organized by Rose Cahalan
Pimiento cheese — that creamy blend of grated cheese, mayo and mild pimiento peppers — is an essential comfort food for many Southerners, right up there with grits and sweet tea. Whether it fills a sandwich, is packed into the groove of a celery stalk or spread on crackers, pimiento cheese is a traditional favorite among both kids and adults. But the consensus stops there, because not all pimiento cheese is alike. Fans of the creamy, processed style of pimiento cheese swear by prepackaged grocery store brands, while others shudder at the sight and head straight to the chunky, veggie-rich home-style variety.
We at My Table take such cheesy matters seriously, so recently a few foodies gathered for a blind taste test in hopes of, if not resolving the debate, at least stretching the boundaries. We tasted 10 of Houston’s locally available pimiento cheeses, scoring them in five categories from the obvious (e.g. cheesiness, spreadability) to the mysterious (deliciousness and personal prejudice) to compute a final ranking.
Because our tasters’ preferences were scattered across the processed-to-homemade spectrum, there were no clear winners, though Paulie’s spicy spread, Janice Schindler’s earthy concoction and Ouisie’s Table’s pretty (and pricy) blend were favorites. The pimiento cheeses were tasted with French bread, water crackers and celery stalks.
Many thanks to our tasters: My Table contributor Jim Sanders, Zagat Survey editor Mike Riccetti (he’s also the author of Houston Dining on the Cheap), real estate agent Cameron Ansari, the magazine’s director of marketing Paula Murphy, My Table’s graphic designer Jen Cooper, chef/restaurateur Lynette Hawkins (she previously had La Mora), Kim Park (namesake of Kimberly Park Communications, a food and beverage public relations firm) and former caterer Joe Abuso (whose new consulting company is Joe Abuso & Co.)
Note: The pimiento cheeses are listed in order of ranking, from lowest to highest.
AVALON DINER
2417 Westheimer
$10.72 for a pint
The Day-Glo orange hue of this cheese from the River Oaks-area diner resulted in our tasters dubbing it the “nuclear option.” Soupy and wet as it came to room temperature, Avalon’s spread seems closer to Cheez Whiz than pimiento cheese. It makes bread soggy, so don’t put it on a sandwich. “Harsh, dried chile flavor. Non-dairy-like,” noted one taster, though several others praised the straightforward cheesy taste.
Score: 41/100
EDLOE ST. DELI
6119 Edloe St.
$5.40 for 7 oz.
If you like egg salad, you’ll probably like this spread — the texture and taste are oddly similar. Opinion was divided over the thick, creamy texture, but all agreed it was a little heavy on the mayo: “Too much mayo overpowers the cheese.” Edloe St. Deli is located in West U.
Score: 45/100
PRICE’S
area grocery stores
$2.79 for 7 oz.
Price’s is the pimiento cheese you’re most likely to find in the grocery store dairy case. Its smooth curdly texture led our tasters to score it high for spreadability, but the artificially bright color, thin body and sweet processed taste aren’t for everyone. “A little thin — lack of fat,” noted one taster. Another wrote, “Strange texture, a little ‘wormy.’” This seems to be a love-it-or-hate-it pimiento cheese.
Score: 48/100
BROWN BAG DELI
2036 Westheimer
$3.25 for 7 oz.
This pimiento cheese from Brown Bag Deli, a local Houston-grown sandwich chain, has a taste and texture similar to Price’s; in fact, two of our tasters guessed that it was Price’s. Opinion varied from “smooth, fairly rich flavor, slightly rough acidity” to “gag me — seems pre-chewed” to “inoffensive in a good way.” Note the reasonable price.
Score: 55/100
CENTRAL MARKET/PAM’S
3815 Westheimer
$5.99 for 1 lb.
Flavorful specks of dill imbue Central Market’s pimiento cheese with a fresh, herby flavor. Some tasters wished the shredded cheeses were blended more smoothly, but if you prefer a mild-flavored chunkier spread, this may be your pick. “Bland, but not unpleasant.” Look for it on the self-serve olive bar near the cheese department.
Score: 59/100
WHOLE FOODS MARKET/CIOLO brand
2955 Kirby
$5.49 for 7.8 oz.
Whole Foods’ pimiento cheese, available in the supermarket’s cheese case, lies in the middle of the processed vs. natural spectrum. One taster thought it might go well with spirits, though some disliked the stout onion taste. Definitely an adult-styled pimiento cheese.
Score: 60/100
ZOË’S KITCHEN
3701 S. Shepherd
$9.95 for 1 lb.
From this Southern fast-casual chain based in Birmingham, Alabama, a very orange spread with big, bright red pimiento pieces (“like something from a 1950s time capsule”). The pepper taste is powerful, a rarity among pimiento cheeses, and the less creamy texture was a pleasant change. “Rich, cheesy start, pleasantly warm finish,” commented one reviewer. Because it’s slightly dry, it might be better spread on a sandwich than dipped on a chip.
Score: 63/100
JANICE SCHINDLER’S WORDS & FOOD
area farmers’ markets
$7 for a half-pint
Janice Schindler’s pimiento cheese, which has been named the best in town by the Houston Press, is similar to Ouisie’s, though the vegetable pieces are smaller and the cheese is more yellow than white. Although it didn’t have the highest score, this was a favorite among our tasters. “I taste real cheddar cheese.” It’s available at area farmers’ markets, including the Saturday morning Bayou City Farmer’s Market, located behind the office building at 3000 Richmond.
Score: 68/100
OUISIE’S TABLE
3939 San Felipe
$18.40 for a pint
This high-priced cheese from a local upscale restaurant came in second in the overall ranking. It’s a white cheese spread with a rich confetti of vegetable chunks, and it’s not as overpoweringly cheesy as some of the others. Looks pretty on the table and doesn’t disappoint in taste and texture. “I like this,” one taster noted simply. Of course there was dissention: “Too chunky, not pimiento cheese enough, looks like pasta salad.” When sources and prices were revealed at the end of the tasting, the panel was shocked at the price.
Score: 71/100
PAULIE’S
1834 Westheimer
$7.04 for a pint
Paulie’s pimiento cheese, which we purchased from the restaurant duo’s Montrose-area location, had the highest average score among our tasters. “I like the scallions in this. Great color, seems fancy,” wrote one taster, although another opined, “Onion should be sliced thinner.” It’s very cheesy, and you might be surprised by the spicy undertones. “Nice balance of cheesiness, veggies and chunkiness.” Spreads very nicely on crackers.
Score: 73/100
