Inside My Table #87 | Excerpt
Noteworthy Openings
CAPRICCIO TAPAS, 10865 Jones Road near FM 1960 West, 281-807-9442. Gerry Sarmiento, who also has Mezzanotte, opened this Italian-Spanish spot in northwest Houston. The menu offers various tapas (including mussels and grilled baby octopus), as well as paella, gazpacho, pizza and pasta. David Dukehart is chef. As we go to press in mid-September, the restaurant has just received its long-awaited liquor license.
FRANK’S CHOP HOUSE, 3736 Westheimer east of Weslayan/Willowick, 713-572-8600. Two Franks — Frank Crapitto of Crapitto’s Cucina Italiana and Frank Butera who helped open the original Carrabba’s — have taken over the location that was The Stables for years and years and was most recently Joyce’s Ocean Grill. The menu is wide ranging and offers diverse possibilities: shrimp campechana, fritto misto (mixed fried seafood), braised short ribs, lamb chops, ribeye, and maple-brined double-cut pork chop. Must-not-miss: sautéed black drum served over eggplant with key lime beurre blanc. There’s a nice wine list, too, with many selections under $30.
OLIVES MARTINI BAR & GRILL, 2268 Texas Dr. north of N. Town Center Blvd., Sugar Land, 281-980-2823. Owner Chris Reyes serves 50 kinds of martinis and a New American Cuisine menu that is drawing raves from its young crowd. (David Luna was the consulting chef for the opening.) Live piano music, too. For more details, see this issue’s Listings.
RAIA’S ITALIAN MARKET, 4500 Washington two blocks east of Shepherd, 713-861-1042. If you’re familiar with D’Amico’s Italian Market Cafe in the Village, you’ll understand this new market/deli/Italian kitchen. Owner Luke Raia, who used to work at D’Amico’s, offers a steamtable menu (choose three from such comfort foods as lasagne, rolled pork loin, brisket, fried chicken, Caesar salad, Italian sausages), plus pastas, thin-crust pizza and fresh-made deli sandwiches served with pasta salad. There are also shelves full of olives, olive oil, anchovies, dry pasta, roasted peppers and such. Desserts include cannoli, gelato, tiamisu, cheesecake and Italian cream cake.
RED SUSHI, 505 Second St., Kemah Waterfront, 281-334-6708. Located above The Flying Dutchman, this newish Japanese spot — it opened earlier this year — is from the Landry’s group. (The original Red Sushi is in the Golden Nugget in Las Vegas, hence the Landry’s connection.) It’s smart and modern and offers a great view of the water. This may not be the most cutting edge sushi you’ve ever had, but there is a good basic line-up of sushi and sashimi, plus tempura, steaks and colorful cocktails. (Call to make sure that Hurricane Ike damage has been repaired.)
TABLE 7 BISTRO, 720 Fannin at Capitol, in the Club Quarters Hotel, 713-227-4800. Shelley and Babak Elham, who own the two District 7 Grills, opened this downtown spot, which acts as the in-house restaurant for the adjacent hotel. Anthony Bolt (previously at Daily Review and Shade) is executive chef. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
