Inside My Table #86 | Excerpt
Noteworthy Openings
BOWL, 607 Richmond, just west of Spur 527, 832-582-7218. Ralph Rager recently opened this fast-casual sandwich and salad spot next to his bar, Absinthe. Sandwich choices include pulled pork with Thai coleslaw on a delicious ciabatta, a pressed prosciutto and brie sandwich and grilled cheese with white cheddar, bacon and apples. On the salad side, you choose the base of salad greens and add on the toppings, either 10 toppings for the solo ($7) or 15 for the doppia ($10).
CRAVE CUPCAKES, 1151-06 Uptown Park Blvd., 713-622-7283. Los Angeles-based husband and wife team, Elizabeth Harrison and Peter Cooper (both native Houstonians), are the masterminds behind Crave Cupcakes. Brad Dorsey, a 20-year hospitality industry veteran, is co-owner. It has a very cool design: Gleaming white subway tiles, a stained concrete floor and a glass wall of cupcakes merges smartly with nostalgic touches of mid-century Mixmasters and functioning milk fountains. For those who like to watch, all the kitchen functions are visible through the transparent cupcake case. Cupcakes are made throughout the day in small batches to ensure freshness. Cinnamon rolls and maple cupcakes are offered until 11 am. Of course Crave has its own special coffee blend, and there are vintage sodas such as Dublin Dr Pepper and Mexicola Coca Cola.
HUE, 3600 Kirby at Richmond, 713-526-8858. Brand new — it opened in late June — Hue is the first tenant in this totally revamped shopping center. The setting is light and airy, very modern in shades of green and blond wood, with some discrete Asian touches. Listening to the throbbing techno beat on the sound system, you may be able to guess that the owners are the same family who operate Azuma and Soma. (The look and feel of the place is definitely their formula.) The Vietnamese menu here is less funky than the one at, say, Mai’s, and it veers toward some fusion dishes. Cha gio (Vietnamese eggrolls) are crisp and good, if a little under seasoned. The goi muc (calamari salad) doesn’t have that problem — it’s spicy and good, boosted with plenty of chiles. We also liked the mi xao, a bowl of noodles with shrimp, chicken, pork, vegetables and chile lime fish sauce. Shepard Ross (of Glass Wall) is consulting on the wine list.
PAGODA VIETNAMESE BISTRO & BAR, 4705 Inker St., south of I-10 and just east of S. Shepherd, 832-673-0400. This newcomer, located in a sunny yellow Heights-area bungalow that has been enlarged, is from a young couple, Sandy Tran and Huy Nguyen. The food is fresh and light — and it’s a welcome addition to this part of town. Among the dishes we sampled were the spring rolls (more lettuce for wrapping would be welcome), bun (vermicelli bowl) with grilled pork, a banh mi sandwich with shredded chicken and chargrilled beef with egg cake, fried egg and rice. Pagoda, which opened in May, is still settling in terms of service, but it looks great and everyone is enthusiastic and welcoming. Yes, they do serve alcohol.
PAN Y AGUA, 3215 Westheimer, 3 blocks west of Kirby, 713-523-4500. John Moore (who has the Palazzo’s restaurants) opened this Mexico City concept in June in his old Palazzo’s location at the corner of Bammel Lane. On our visit, the draft menu was very short: grilled skirt steak, chicken enchiladas, seafood enchiladas, grilled trout with ratatouille, chicken mole. By the time you read this it should include ceviche, braised short ribs, queso fundido, handmade taquitos and more. The dining room has been simplified, and we liked the pale caramel and chocolate brown color scheme. The outdoor areas are charming. You’ll recognize Chuck Bulnes, who’s been a manager and barkeep at various Houston establishments over the years, keeping an eye on things. The only sour note: $12 margaritas. Good grief!
SHULA’S AMERICAN STEAK HOUSE, 1200 Louisiana in the Hyatt Regency, 713-375-4777. Located in the lobby, Shula’s replaces two of this downtown hotel’s three previous restaurants. (The revolving rooftop Spindletop remains.) Given that the namesake is legendary Miami Dolphins coach Don Shula, of course there is a heavy football theme, and photos and memorabilia cover the walls. The dinner menu is a traditional steakhouse line-up. Lunch includes steaks as well as burgers, Cobb salad, “Black and Blue Salad,” crabcake sandwich and lobster ravioli.
