Inside My Table #83 | Restaurant listings
2007’s Best New Restaurants
Groan. Every year we compile this annual “best newcomers” list, and every year it is more challenging. Anyone who’s in the business can tell you why: Restaurants are constantly in flux. Reviewing a restaurant is not like writing a book review or film review where the object of our consideration is finished and permanent. Restaurants change every day. Maybe the seafood purveyor delivers a fresher product one week, or a new manager refines the level of service. Conversely, the chef de cuisine may quit suddenly or the owner may admit that, yes, his pricing is too rich for the market. In any case, any “snapshot” of a restaurant is accurate for only about a day, and that’s particularly true of newcomers. Having said all that, here are our nine picks for 2007’s best new restaurants. Note: We did not consider restaurants that moved (such as Simposio) or were close off-shoots to existing restaurants (e.g. Red Onion Taco Cantina, Brenner’s on the Bayou).
ARMANDO’S, 2630 Westheimer at Kirby Dr., 713-520-1738. No one was snarkier about the resurrected Armando’s than we were. Yet, since its re-opening, the place has grown on us. This is the third incarnation of Armando Palacios’ 1980s “clubhouse” so fondly remembered by River Oaksians and others for its glossy social scene and unremarkable Tex-Mex food. This edition, which opened in March, has dark pumpkin walls and big mirrors, formal linen-set tables and gracious wait people. So keep your focus narrowed (on tacos al carbon, nopales salad, guacamole, margaritas), let the service coddle you, and revel in the snug, lush Mexico City setting. There is no signage; look for the red awnings in the place where River Oaks Grill used to be.
AU PETIT PARIS, 2048 Colquitt just east of S. Shepherd, 832-331-3541. Our first meal at this intimate spot did not terribly impress us, so it’s something of an act of faith to call Au Petit Paris one of the year’s best. However, we think all the components are here and that chef/owners Eric Legros and Dominique Bocquier will polish this diamond in the rough into a gem that we’ll be glad we did not overlook. The menu is pure French, but things are not always what you are expecting. (Could it be a translation problem?) Still, the bottom line is that it’s so great to have a French restaurant in the neighborhood that we’re willing to let some things slide for a bit. Oh, except for the by-the-glass wine selection. On our visit in late December there was not a single sparkling wine offered by the glass. Incroyable!
BEAVERS, 2310 Decatur St. south of Washington Ave., 713-864-BEAV. It may be hard to wrap your mind around “Monica Pope” and “barbecue” in the same restaurant concept, but work on it. After months of delay, this Washington Avenue-area roadhouse finally fired up the grill in late 2007 and has been sending out great chunks of smoky brisket, North Carolina-style pulled pork, fabulous Jolie Vue Farms’ sausage and pork ribs. Dax McAnear, listed on the menu as chef and GM, apparently is running the place for Pope. (No surprise to learn McAnear used to work with Ryan Pera, now at The Grove.) The ambiance is kick-back casual and noisy. There’s a full bar, but brewheads will want to work their way through the well-chosen beer list.
BOB’S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE, 1801 Post Oak Blvd. bet. Westheimer & San Felipe, 713-877-8325 (713-87-STEAK). Located in the old Tony’s location, this is the fourth edition of the Dallas-based steakhouse chain, and you’ll instantly recognize the vaguely retro formula: clubby atmosphere with polished bar, crisp table linens and mahogany booths, a guy-friendly sports emphasis in the bar, and a menu that focuses on the classics. If it’s a comfortable, upscale dining experience you want—and you’re a carnivore—this is your spot. Among the must-orders: shrimp remoulade, bleu cheese salad and 22-oz. cote de boeuf bone-in ribeye. All entrees come with choice of potatoes (both skillet fried and “smashed” have their fans) and a signature sweet-glazed carrot. The local Houston owner is Ed Toles.
BRASSERIE MAX & JULIE, 4315 Montrose near Richmond, 713-524-0070. Chef Jeff Boudreaux’s menu seemed way too heavy—pot au feu, choucroute garnie—when the restaurant first opened in August, but in winter it is exactly right. From the Cafe Rabelais team, this French newcomer is just what the Museum District neighborhood needed. It’s the old Aries location, jazzed up with a new Art Deco entrance but keeping that same great tree-top balcony upstairs. Other menu possibilities: sautéed sweetbreads, bone-in ribeye, foie gras, steak tartar and frites, and cassoulet Toulousain. Owner Chris Paul offers an extensive French wine list, including many by-the-glass selections and Champagne splits. Just a few months old, Brasserie Max & Julie already feels like it’s been here for years.
DANTON’S GULF COAST SEAFOOD KITCHEN, 4611 Montrose at Highway 59, 713- 807-8883. Danton Nix and partner Kyle Teas opened a seafood spot in the location that has seen many tenants, including Redwood Grill and O’Rourke’s Steakhouse. Nix is an alumnus of Goode Co. Seafood and Joyce’s, and the experience is evident on the menu—a perfect Houston confluence of Texas Gulf seafood with generous Cajun and Mexican influences—and its stellar execution. The old bar area, to the left of the front door, is now an oyster bar. Go slurp a dozen or two while the bays are cold and the oysters are sweet.
DEL FRISCO’S DOUBLE EAGLE STEAK HOUSE, 5061 Westheimer in The Galleria, 713-355-2600. Since its November grand opening—complete with a red carpet, paparazzi and sky-slicing spotlights—Del Frisco’s has grabbed the title of fanciest new restaurant of the year. It boasts luxurious interiors, including a hand-painted Italian glass ceiling and light fixtures, 40-foot windows with a striking view of the skylines of the Galleria and downtown Houston, and a second-story mezzanine, accessible by elevator, with its own bar (speaking of which—the bar action is sizzling). Known for its prime steak and fab-u-lous crab cakes, Del Frisco’s is set in the renovated complex that formerly housed the Lord and Taylor department store. Early service was nervous-shaky, but that is smoothing out every week. Executive chef is Steve Haug.
MONARCH, 5701 Main Street in Hotel ZaZa, 713-526-1991. Chef Bradley Manchester had his work cut out for him, what with the outrageous and decadent grand opening party the Hotel ZaZa threw for itself. The bar scene continues and is still much too cool (or should that be too hot?) for us, but that hasn’t stopped Manchester from keeping his focus on the kitchen and sending out exquisite American cuisine that appeals to serious and seriously trendy diners. The menu covers steaks, chops, seafood, even a cheeseburger with “Darn Good Fries.” Our outstanding memory: the best piece of salmon we had all year … quivery, gently grilled, perfect. Your tab arrives in a velvet-lined silver box with a crown etched into the lid.
REEF, 2600 Travis at McGowen, 713-526-8282. Chef Bryan Caswell and front-of-the-house guy Bill Floyd (both formerly with Bank at the Hotel Icon, both winners of Houston Culinary Awards, including 2007’s Best New Restaurant) teamed up for this Midtown global seafood place, and the love won’t stop. The menu is an ever-changing tribute to seafood: snapper carpaccio, roasted grouper, crispy skin snapper and, for the fish-phobe at the table, a “naked” ribeye with brown butter gnocchi. Of note is the well-priced wine list, with scores of tempting choices, especially whites. For lighter fare, try Reef’s 3rd Bar where sliders (i.e. mini-burgers) and a raw bar are the draw. Modern, almost plain dining room with a watery blue haze; we love the hanging light fixtures, like glowing dandelion seed heads.
2007’S NOTEWORTHY CLOSINGS
BANK, 220 Main
BAROQUE, 1700 Sunset Blvd.
CAFE EMPRESS, 17505 State Highway 249
CROSTINI, 2411 S. Shepherd
DREXLER’S WORLD FAMOUS BBQ, 2300 Pierce
HOFBRAU STEAKS, 1803 Shepherd
HUNAN, 1800 Post Oak Blvd.
MYKONOS ISLAND, 2181 Richmond
NIT NOI THAI, 2426 Bolsover
RIVER OAKS GRILL, 2630 Westheimer
TAJ MAHAL, 8328 Gulf Freeway
THREE BROTHERS BAKERY, 2040 West Gray
WILLIAMS SMOKEHOUSE, 5903 Wheatley
