Inside My Table #78 | Restaurant listings
Cold, Dry and Dirty
The martini, once described by H.L. Mencken as “the only American invention as perfect as the sonnet,” is the king of cocktails. As such, it lends its name to a type of glass and, regrettably, everything served in that glass, from ceviche appetizers to chocolate desserts. Early martinis gained notoriety consisting of gin mixed with dry vermouth in a three-to-one ratio (or so) and served with a garnish. Today, gin martinis are rare, and vodka has all but replaced it in the cocktail shaker, pitcher and glass. Vermouth might be present solely as a residue, if at all. A very good martini can be made through shaking (the preferred method in our warm climate), stirring or simply freezing and combining. The common thread is that quality liquor be used and the drink be served very, very cold. Some of the best local versions of the classic martini are poured below.
A+, 1117 Prairie at Fannin in the Alden Hotel, 832-200-8800. Sleeker, hipper and more comfortable than most business travelers expect, a+ draws a local crowd for expertly crafted and attractively served cocktails that have, no doubt, helped seal a few business deals. That the glassware fits with the decor seems to make the cocktails even tastier. Sophisticated snacks, small and large, from the hotel’s acclaimed restaurant are another calling card.
ABSINTHE, 609 Richmond west of the spur to downtown, 713-528-7575. This unmarked, cozy and modernist space in Montrose, dedicated to discriminating drinkers, has a suitably lengthy bar with about a dozen stools, a long banquette, a few comfortable seats and classic acoustic jazz playing during the slower hours. Martinis made with one of a limited, but well chosen, list of vodkas and gins are served very dry in stout easy-to-handle stemless glasses.
BENJY’S LOUNGE, 2424 Dunstan east of Kirby, 713-522-7602. Set above its namesake restaurant, this has been an energetic lounging spot at the edge of the Rice Village for well over a decade. In a setting described as “space-age bachelor-pad,” it sports a hip, but usually comfortable atmosphere that’s a fitting complement to the excellent restaurant downstairs. It has an extensive list of wines and spirits, especially vodkas, and the know-how to consistently make a good martini.
DAVENPORT, 2117 Richmond at Shepherd, 713-520-1140. Quality imbibing has been a hallmark at Davenport since it joined its Shepherd Plaza booze-dispensing brethren at the start of the decade. It sports an impressive array of liquors, including an advertised 120 vodkas and a decent number of gins, plus the propensity to mix these quite properly into large-sized cocktails. This retro-leaning place appeals to both the younger trendier crowd and one that appreciates (and can afford) some of the bar’s best selections.
DOWNING STREET, 2549 Kirby at Westheimer, 713-523-2291. This handsome, cigar-oriented bar on the cusp of River Oaks supports a diverse and well-heeled clientele who expect a wide selection of fine spirits. The selection of scotches is probably the strong suit here, but there are numerous vodkas and enough brands of gin coupled with an experienced staff to ensure only expertly shaken martinis are poured into their sturdy stemware.
LA GRIGLIA, 2002 West Gray east of Shepherd, 713-526-4700. Though no longer owned by the Vallones, the restaurant is still buoyant with patrons exhibiting bella figura, and the drinks are still well-poured from a generously stocked list in the attractive and often crowded bar area. The large martinis, at least in the dining room, are served in individually sized shakers that provide some additional cocktail goodness.
MAGGIANO’S LITTLE ITALY, 2019 Post Oak Blvd. bet. Westheimer & San Felipe, 713-961-2700. The prominent, masculine bar at this popular Italian-American chain is never lacking for business. Though the singles scene and the piano are also attractions, the staff pours usually excellent martinis and other cocktails. These are served in uniquely tall and attractive stemware, and in exuberantly sized measures that are in the same vein as the food offerings.
MARFRELESS, 2006 Peden east of Shepherd behind River Oaks Theatre, 713-528-0083. For more than 30 years, Marfreless has been Houstonians’ favorite secret hideaway. Though a big part of the attraction was once the cheapness of its drinks, the prices now properly reflects the higher quality and larger pours from the expansive list of liquors, including 30-plus vodkas and nearly 10 gins. Though the other significant part of Marfreless’ charm remains the same, it is now a good stop for a pre- or post-dinner shaken martini served in a unique metal glass.
MUGSY’S, 3200 Kirby bet. W. Alabama & Richmond, 713-526-5595. This clubby and conversation-friendly bar is a comfortable part of the Upper Kirby landscape. They take evident pride with their cocktails, as witnessed by a well-stocked bar with numerous vodkas, several gins, 25-year-old Macallan and a money-back guarantee regarding the peerless-ness of their Bloody Marys. Martinis are mixed with a far defter and more practiced hand than at most other bars and a better value to boot.
MULDOON’S, 3839 Southwest Freeway bet. Buffalo Speedway & Weslayan, 713-621-8125. Set in a narrow space in a strip center on a feeder road, Muldoon’s is an honest bar. The din of the freeway traffic, surprisingly, provides a welcome background for imbibing, and the small, but select array of vodkas and gins makes for an even better base. You’ll likely have to choose between straight-up or on the rocks, a rare decision these days, but indicating Muldoon’s commitment to discerning drinkers.
THE REMINGTON BAR, 1919 Briar Oaks east of Loop 610 at San Felipe, in the St. Regis Hotel, 713-840-7600. In an attractive and comfortable dark-wood setting with an expert longtime bartender, The Remington fits the bill most evenings when a perfectly crafted martini is important. There is fine selection of all of the proper liquors and more than a few of the expense-account variety. To note, on the weekends when the bar becomes the self-styled “Houston’s Premier Dance Venue!” the cocktails might be more difficult to appreciate.
T.K. BITTERMAN’S, 2010 W. Alabama east of Shepherd, 713-529-8979. That the always well-crafted and thoroughly shaken martinis are larger here, at about seven ounces, than elsewhere is part of the attraction at this long-time, small and convivial neighborhood bar and shrine to the Chicago Cubs. The bar is properly stocked with enough of the quality vodkas and gins to satisfy most connoisseurs and certainly the amiable tippler and baseball fan.
TONY MANDOLA’S GULF COAST KITCHEN, 1962 W. Gray bet. Dunlavy & Shepherd, 713-528-3474. With its long granite bar, Tony Mandola’s is a pleasant stop for finely crafted cocktails from their suitably stocked cache. Their signature Cajun martini featuring pickled okra as a garnish and spiced with jalapeños is a locally tuned creation for those who enjoy the additional heat. For other martinis, you’ll be asked “straight up or on the rocks?”
WARREN’S INN, 307 Travis at Congress, 713-247-9207. Though the martinis might have tasted better while Jose was shaking ’em during the previous decade, downtown stalwart Warren’s still serves quality, straightforward martinis that are a great value to a diverse crowd. Serious drinkers are a big part of the business at this funky and eclectic, yet-down-to-earth establishment across the street from Market Square Park.
