Inside My Table #77 | Restaurant listings
2006’s Best New Restaurants
We hate compiling this annual “best” list. By its very nature, it makes a permanent judgment of the best-ness of an industry that is constantly in flux. Not only will the list be obsolete by the time it’s printed, but it’s utterly subjective. Unlike sports with their endless statistics, say, there’s no way to quantify what’s best in any given restaurant. Sigh.
Here are some of the parameters we used to winnow down 2006’s best newcomers. We usually do not include chains (although you’ll see a couple exceptions below). Obviously we eliminated restaurants that opened and closed before year’s end (e.g. Pic) and those that changed up their concept (1308 Cantina, fka Sabor). We do not include replications of existing Houston restaurants — sorry, Perry’s and Cova. We love your restaurants, but let’s spotlight some new concepts. And we didn’t include restaurants that moved but kept their personality fairly intact, such as Indika, La Vista, Rainbow Lodge, Kanomwan and Truluck’s.
AMICI RISTORANTE, 16089 City Walk at Highway 6, Sugar Land, 281-242-2800. Restaurateur Tony Vallone’s son Jeff Vallone and former executive chef Bruce McMillian opened their own place at the end of October in Sugar Land. (And Houston is mighty envious, we can tell you.) The Neapolitan menu might remind you of Grotto or La Griglia, and that’s a good thing. $$-$$$
BISTRO TOULOUSE, 5750 Woodway at Bering, 713-977-6900. The space that was formerly Cafe Toulouse reopened with a new owner, new look and new menu as Bistro Toulouse. Chef Scott Castell calls his menu New American and offers sandwiches, salads and “fitness plates” at lunch and more serious items (e.g. lamb frites, steak frites, short ribs) at dinner. It’s a quintessential neighborhood spot, a tiny bit upscale and completely comfortable. $$
CATALAN FOOD & WINE, 5555 Washington Ave. near T.J. Jester, 713- 426-4260. Local gourmands were practically in a tizzy by the time Catalan finally swung open its doors. The Spanish/American comfort food concept brought together Charles Clark and Grant Cooper (of Ibiza), chef Chris Shepherd (Brennan’s), GM Antonio Gianola (DaMarco) and Matthew Pridgen (Mark’s American Cuisine). Wow, what a pedigree! Noisy, lively, fun, and the food is great. Good wine list, too. $$-$$$
CHEZ GEORGES, 219 Westheimer bet. Brazos & Taft, 713-529-7788. Georges and Monique Guy were lured out of retirement and rescued this fine old Arts-and-Crafts cottage (once Aldo’s, but much nicer now). As at the original Chez Georges, the menu is French provincial: escargots, foie gras, sweetbreads, braised duck breast and leg confit, rack of lamb and filet. $$$
DOLCE VITA PIZZERIA ENOTECA, 500 Westheimer east of Montrose, 713-520-8222. We’ve never been to this pizzeria/wine bar from Marco Wiles (who has DaMarco) when it wasn’t packed. Don’t be misled by “pizzeria” — this ain’t no Pizza Hut. The thin and slightly scorched wood-fired pies are the draw to be sure, but there is also a bold menu that includes cured meats, salady things and vegetable antipasti. It’s all smartly complemented by the all-Italian wine list. $-$$
GLASS WALL, 933 Studewood at East 10th St., 713-868-7930. This was another hotly anticipated opening, not only for its provenance but because it was located in The Heights, an area long under-populated by fine-dining restaurants. The menu showcases seafood and meat prepared in sort of an American bistro style. It’s from chef Lance Fegen (formerly at Zula, winner of My Table’s 2001 Houston Culinary Award for Up-and-Coming Chef) and front-of-the-house guy/wine guru Shepard Ross. $$-$$$
MAX’S WINE DIVE, 4720 Washington Ave. at Shepherd, 713-880-8737. Owners Jerry Lasco and Jonathan Horowitz, who have the three Tasting Room locations, unleashed their inner frat boys with this hot newcomer. They hired chef Jonathan Jones and apparently let him write a menu that we all want to eat (even though our cardiologist would so not approve). There’s fried chicken, meat loaf, pot roast, big ol’ burgers … you get the idea. To drink, choose from the amazing wine list. Open late. $-$$
THE OCEANAIRE SEAFOOD ROOM, 5061 Westheimer in The Galleria, 832-487-8862. Look out, McCormick & Schmick’s! This sophisticated chain restaurant (turned out to suggest a 1930s ocean liner) has a retro seafood menu that covers traditional favorites from New England, Maryland, New Orleans and the Gulf, even the West Coast. The menu is fun to read, and chef Trevor White’s food is excellent. $$$
RA SUSHI, 3908 Westheimer west of Weslayan/Willowick, 713-621-5800. By now, most of Houston is aware of this national chain’s Highland Village location and its stylishly edgy approach to sushi. It’s great looking, the perfect stage for all the pretty young things who sip pricy Asian cocktails and talk on their cell phones. Go early, unless you want to be pummeled by the throb of the DJ/techno scene. $$
FAREWELL
2006’s Most Significant Closings
ARIES, 4315 Montrose
CANTON SEAFOOD, 2649 Richmond Ave.
DIETRICH COFFEE, 1901 Westheimer
EATZI’S, 1702 Post Oak Blvd.
GALLANT KNIGHT, 2337 W. Holcombe
KRISPY KREME, all area locations
LA MORA, 912 Lovett Blvd.
LA TOUR D’ARGENT, 2011 Ella Blvd.
LAIDBACK MANOR, 706 Main St.
LOS ANDES, 3700 Richmond
NARA, 11124 Westheimer
ORIGINAL NEW ORLEANS PO’BOY, 3902 Main St.
PADDY THAI, 6018 Westheimer
PIG STAND, 2412 Washington Ave.
