Inside My Table #75 | Restaurant listings
Fast ‘n’ Fresh
Many fast-casual restaurants offer more reasons to visit than being simply fast and casual. Some have remarkably good food, too. We have found that in many cases the most interesting and proficient fast-casual restaurants are local creations. Our favorites — okay, including some out-of-town chains — are listed.
AMAZON GRILL, 5114 Kirby bet. Westpark and Bissonnet, 713-522-5888 and other location. From Michael Cordua, who gave Houston the popular Churrascos, Americas and Artista restaurants, this concept was bound to resonate with Houstonians. Serving a variety of Latin-derived dishes, such as empanadas, pecan-crusted fish, flautas and ceviche, this exceeds the typical fast-casual restaurant, both in design and menu. A key attraction is that you don’t have to dress up to enjoy their tres leches, the local gold-standard of the dessert. $-$$
BERRYHILL BAJA GRILL, 2639 Revere just south of Westheimer, 713-526-8080 and several other locations. Berryhill can take a bow for introducing Houston to fish tacos, the Southern Californian favorite. Comfortable, casual and usually fun restaurants, their kitchens now feature several versions of the seafood-based tacos and are reason enough to visit. The breakfasts are another. Alas, the one-time signature tamales have lost the lard and much of their flavor, too. $
BLACK WALNUT CAFE, 5501 Morningside 713-526-5551 and other location in The Woodlands. This concept probably seems much cooler in The Woodlands, but it apparently plays just fine in the Rice Village, too. With a wide-ranging and fairly lengthy menu — pastas, burgers and sandwiches, desserts — that includes breakfast served all the time, patrons will easily find an item or several that should satisfy. $
CAFE EXPRESS, 1422 West Gray east of Waugh, 713-522-3100 and other locations. The quick concept from the folks who won our hearts with Cafe Annie hits most of the right notes. Besides the inviting salads, sandwiches and pastas, Cafe Express provides an outstanding self-serve station of sauces, olive oil, mustards, vinegars, pickles, pepperoncini, capers, cornichons, sun-dried tomatoes and breadsticks. There are several beers and wine by the glass, too. $
CHICKEN KITCHEN, 2516 Rice Boulevard east of Kirby, 713-523-2323. This Miami-based concept seems to fit in quite well with the myriad of eclectic small eateries in the Rice Village. There are wraps and chicken-breast plates, but most of the dishes start with either roasted chicken or marinated, boneless and skinless grilled chicken breast that is chopped and mixed with several items over rice or greens, all in a single bowl, and complemented with one of several sauces. There is good bang for the buck here. $
LA MADELEINE, 6205 Kirby north of University, 713-942-7081, and other locations. These more than hold their own against the other informal, French-inspired cafes in town, offering reliable soups, salads, French sandwiches, crepes, pastas and heartier fare. The quality of the baked goods is also high. In typical French fashion, fat in the way of cheese, butter and cream are quite evident, and that’s a good thing. $
MASALA WOK, 10001 Westheimer bet. Gessner & Beltway 8, 713-784-8811. A spiffy, comfortable spot, this is “a casual Indian diner with a Chinese twist.” This means many familiar Indian dishes and Chinese-Indian items that are popular in large Indian cities such as Mumbai (if not yet Houston). Touting food that is made to order, quality ingredients and freshly ground spices, plus a choice among vegetables, chicken, lamb or shrimp for the protein, this has become a popular lunch spot for office-workers in the Westchase area. $
MISSION BURRITO, 2245 W. Alabama bet. Greenbriar & Kirby, 713-529-0535, and other location. Though value-priced burritos are the biggest draw, Mission Burritos also serves chicken and tortilla soup, salad with a choice of toppings and house-made dressings, gordita-like grilled cheese and tacos. The tacos stuffed with fried catfish, grated cheese, cilantro, onions, lettuce and tomatillo salsa in corn tortillas are especially satisfying. $
PAPPAS BURGER, 5815 Westheimer bet. Chimney Rock & Fountainview, 713-975-6082. Pappas Burger is a slicker-than-usual operation for a modestly priced restaurant that primarily serves hamburgers. Service is much better, the setting is cleaner and more comfortable, the food is well prepared, the large portions provide a good value, and the menu hits more accurately at its target patrons. Oh, yeah, the burgers are very good here, too. $
PAULIE’S, 1834 Westheimer east of Shepherd, 713-807-7271, and two other locations. The princepe panino (Italian sausage, fresh mozzarella, grilled onions and peppers on rustic country-style white bread, pressed) and pizzatola panino (similar to the principe, but with fresh mozzarella, roma tomato slices and pesto) are two of the best sandwiches in the area. These are reasons enough to visit, as are the vibrant salads, pastas, hearty entrees and scrumptious cookies. Skip the soggy-crusted pizzas. $
POLLO RIKO, 7229 Fondren north of Highway 59, 713-271-4321, and two other locations. Moist rotisserie chickens and great value are two of the attractions at Colombian-accented Pollo Riko. Though these might a little too casual (and scruffy) for some My Table readers, they are some of the most popular fast-casual restaurants for the local working-class Latin immigrant population. The chicken and tropical sides are even tastier with the complimentary green sauce made of garlic, parsley and onions. $
PRONTO CUCININO, 1401 Montrose bet. W. Dallas & W. Gray, 713-528-8646. From Vincent Mandola, whose nearby restaurant complex on W. Dallas includes Vincent’s, Nino’s and Grappino, this is straightforward Southern-Italian-American food meant to be taken home or eaten at the restaurant in typically quick American fashion. Popular and boisterous since opening last year, there are stuffed and other pasta dishes, salads and heartier entrees such as excellent wood-roasted chicken and grilled salmon, but, alas, no veal. $-$$
RUGGLES CAFE BAKERY, 2365 Rice bet. Greenbriar & Morningside, 713-520-6662. For a great many, Ruggles Cafe’s chief attraction is that they offer the same popular desserts as the original full-service Ruggles, and there are more than 30 choices. But don’t overlook the meals. For lunch, in the evening, or at night, it is an informal and interesting place in which to enjoy a salad, soup or sandwich, and, of course, the well-regarded desserts. They even serve an excellent hamburger. $
WOLFGANG PUCK GOURMET EXPRESS, 10001 Westheimer bet. Gessner & Beltway 8, 713-266-9739, and other location. Pizzas, hot and cold sandwiches, salads and desserts are part of the user-friendly menu at these efficient, satisfying and often quite loud suburban outposts of the casual Southern Californian-inspired cuisine chain. Bold flavors and some local favorites such as tortilla soup, chicken quesadillas and chicken tenders will strike the right note. $
