Inside My Table #72 | Restaurant listings
Where’s the Beef?
At the best steakhouses you should get richly marbled Prime beef, which is difficult to find at a retail butcher counter and expensive if you do. With a couple noted exceptions, each of our recommended steakhouses serves Prime for (nearly all) their steaks. Though steakhouses seem to suffer from more complaints than other high-end eateries, we believe that these 13 are the best and most consistent. Excellent steaks can be found in many top restaurants, of course, but for our list the establishment had to truly be a steakhouse. Steakhouses really don’t need a definition, do they?
BRENNER’S STEAK HOUSE, 10911 Katy Freeway bet. the Beltway & Wilcrest, 713-465-2901. There were concerns when Tilman Fertitta’s Landry’s group purchased this venerable (circa 1936) family-owned steakhouse on the west side. But, after pumping millions into it, Brenner’s seems to be as good as ever, if not better. It’s certainly more attractive. The biggest draws are the wet-aged USDA Prime steaks and that traditional Brenner’s accompaniment, fried German potatoes. $$$
CAPITAL GRILLE, 5365 Westheimer just west of The Galleria, 713-623-4600. This upscale chain steakhouse fits in nicely with its Galleria-area surroundings. If not Prime, the flavorful dry-aged USDA Choice steaks have their partisans and are broiled at extremely high temperature, which sears the meat. Sides, such as the roasted mushrooms, are fine complements. The handsome decor and bar featuring well-crafted martinis are additional enticements to locals and visitors willing to spend their companies’ money. $$$
FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR, 2405 W. Alabama east of Kirby, 713-520-5959. Prime steaks from the broiler draw a crowded dining room nearly every night of the week. Efficient and friendly service, 100-plus wines by the glass and a loud but pleasant atmosphere (that is noticeably inviting to both men and women) are some of the hallmarks. Though on our last visit the ribeye was a little thinner than we like, Fleming’s usually hits all the right notes. The lobster tempura might be the best steakhouse starter around. $$$
LYNN’S STEAKHOUSE, 955 Dairy Ashford south of I-10, 281-870-0807. Homegrown Lynn’s is one of the best steakhouses in the area. They serve dry-aged USDA Prime cooked in fine fashion, high-quality salads and sides. The French homeland of the owners is most evident with starters such ecresvisses (crawfish, Gallic-style), escargot, foie gras and French onion soup (of course). The food is complemented by one of the best wine lists in the city, with more than 900 choices. $$$
MORTON’S OF CHICAGO, 5000 Westheimer at Post Oak Blvd., 713-629-1946. This popular national chain introduced the see-the-food- before-it’s-cooked shtick that has been copied around the country to smiles or sighs (especially with the sometimes-animated lobster). The grilled steaks are excellent, and the starters, salads, sides, hefty cocktails and manly business-appropriate decor all help to enhance the traditional American expense-account steakhouse experience. $$$
THE PALM, 6100 Westheimer east of Voss Rd., 713-977-2544. This branch of the Manhattan-based Italian-American stalwart has been satisfying Houston patrons since the booming late 1970s with wet-aged USDA Prime beef and a masculine air. The outsized New England lobsters are also a draw in their own right. Excellent broiled crabcakes are another non-steak option on the menu, as are the veal marsala and veal piccata. Plus, the bar is a fine place to enjoy expensive cocktails and company. $$$
PAPPAS BROS. STEAKHOUSE, 5839 Westheimer west of Fountain View, 713-780-7352. This is the clear star among the multitude of Pappas restaurants, a homegrown steakhouse that serves top-notch USDA Prime beef in several sizes per cut and hearty, flavorful sides (e.g. the au gratin potatoes) to adoring throngs in a masculine and lively atmosphere. Their filet might be the best in town, and among the steakhouses, their wine list the most extensive, although skewed too heavily towards reimbursement-assured customers. Service is Pappas-trademark efficient, but maybe a little too casual (especially given the tariff). $$$
PERRY’S STEAKHOUSE & GRILLE, 487 Bay Area Blvd. near Highway 3, 281-286-8800, and other locations. These suburban steakhouses are each quite nice, and maybe more approachable than other top steakhouses as evidenced by starters such as stuffed jalapenos, Polish sausage and crab fingers, and the fact that the steaks come with a side of potatoes. Their steaks are dry-aged in-house, seasoned with a blend of spices, then char-grilled and topped with garlic butter. Their special pork chop, which is dried, cured and roasted for five days, is another draw. Each location has live jazz Wednesday through Saturday nights. $$$
RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE, 6213 Richmond bet. Fountain View & Chimney Rock, 713-789-2333. This long-standing branch of the national chain grew to popularity catering to the beneficiaries of the booming 1970s oil business and is associated with that era by many patrons. The kitchen sends out USDA Prime from an extremely hot broiler with a large dollop of butter that creates the signature mouth-watering sizzle when brought to the table. (Defend your suit by holding up your napkin.) Don’t overlook potatoes Lyonnaise or creamed spinach. $$$
THE STEAKHOUSE, 5222 Seawall Blvd. in the San Luis Hotel, Galveston, 409-744-1500. If just slightly less polished than the top steakhouses in the big city up the interstate, it nevertheless serves USDA Prime beef that will satisfy most steakhouse aficionados. Steaks can be prepared au poivre, blackened or served with a rich roquefort gratin. The menu is steakhouse-standard, but features several interesting seafood appetizers courtesy of the nearby Gulf. It’s also a sibling to two other top places, Brenner’s and Vic & Anthony’s. $$$
STRIP HOUSE, 1200 McKinney at San Jacinto, 713-659-6000. The New York-based Strip House does an excellent job with its USDA Prime beef, albeit in very expensive fashion, ensuring that the downtown has a couple great steakhouses. (Actually, the downtowners may be the two best in town.) The slightly risqué interior helps reinforce the proper tone of masculinity with an added measure of enjoyable frivolity thrown in. The sides are properly rich—try the potatoes cooked with duck fat—and the wine list is well selected with some reasonably priced choices. $$$
SULLIVAN’S STEAKHOUSE, 4608 Westheimer just inside Loop 610, 713-961-0333. Maybe a small notch below the very best steakhouses in Houston—and certainly not nearly as pricey—Sullivan’s nonetheless has plenty of support, both for its steaks and spirited bar scene featuring live music for both men and women of a certain age. Sullivan’s serves USDA Choice grade steak in consistently pleasing fashion. Handsome and comfortable atmosphere. $$$
VIC & ANTHONY’S, 1510 Texas near Crawford, 713-228-1111. The best of the Fertitta-run restaurants is a Houston-bred take on the Italian-American steakhouse. It’s a winner, both for its classy exuberance as well as the kitchen’s dry-aged USDA Prime beef. An expert Caesar or iceberg wedge salad helps start, and nearly perfect creamed spinach, onion rings and more accompany the meat. The handsome bar is a great place for the businessman dining alone or to grab a cocktail before dinner. Avoid after an Astros game, when the place is a madhouse. $$$
