Inside My Table #63 | Restaurant listings
Soulful Houston
Houston supports a number of very casual neighborhood restaurants that serve home-style or country-style African-American comfort food. We have put together a list of 14 of the best-known local soul-food restaurants. Don’t expect much in the way of decor or comfort at these places. The setup is usually functional at best, and takeout is often as popular as dining in. What you can count on is a very hearty, straightforward meal for a fair price.
ADRIAN’S BURGER BAR, 5309 Sonora just east of Lockwood, south of I-10, 713-674-1488. Adrian’s is known for more than just its massive, well-crafted one-pound burgers; this spot also does a creditable job with soul food. Portions are probably the largest in town, and the going price is typically $8.70 for a meat entree with three sides. Few, except the most famished, will be able to finish a meal from the steam table. $
BREAKFAST KLUB, 3711 Travis at Alabama, 713-528-8561. Though it does not offer traditional soul-food fare, the Breakfast Klub serves up excellent, casual breakfast and lunch food with Southern and Creole roots that is right on target for most Houstonians. Located near the nexus of the Third Ward, Montrose and the Museum District, this sparse and informal setting exudes a certain amount of cool that complements the always tasty and interesting dishes. Though stylish, the owners and staff are noticeably very friendly, and the restaurant always seems to emit a welcoming vibe.
BURT’S MEAT MARKET, 5910 Lyons bet. Lockwood & Kress, 713-674-0064. Burt’s Meat Market is primarily that—a meat market. But, it also features a prominent steam table with soul food and black Creole (or Cajun) prepared dishes. There is no seating, so this is strictly a takeout operation. Near the eastern edge of the Fifth Ward, Burt’s is a great stop for andouille sausage and tasso that are made in-house and other Cajun necessities.$
DES DES SOUL FOOD & BAR, 8282 Bellaire #120 bet. Fondren & Gessner, 713-779-8300. This is the only non-Vietnamese business in a strip center on Bellaire. At night, the “bar” is much more pronounced. Also notable, the Amharic script from Ethiopia underscores the name in English. There are no Ethiopian dishes listed on the menu, though the kitchen seems to produce some. Simple dishes here can provide surprising levels of complexity. $
EARLY’S GRILL SEAFOOD, 3810 Cavalcade bet. Eastex Freeway & Hirsch, 713-673-7759. Though “seafood” is in the name and the menu consists of mostly seafood items, the soul food items from the steam table are seemingly the most popular items at Early’s, which is the Fifth Ward. $
FAMILY CAFE, 2712 Blodgett bet. Dowling & Ennis, 713-520-8444. In the heart of the Third Ward, Family Cafe has long been a meeting place for neighborhood politicos and visiting politicians on the campaign stump. $
JUST OXTAILS, 4207 Reed just east of Scott, 713-733-8111. The name is a misnomer, as there is a full soul-food spread each day, not just oxtails. Nearly across the street from Sterling High School, the alma mater of Clyde “The Glide” Drexler, Just Oxtails fills the niche for home-style food in the south Sunnyside neighborhood. $
LOCKWOOD MALT SHOP, 5410 Mulvey at Lockwood, 713-671-2706. Home of perhaps the best soul food not just in the Fifth Ward, but in all of Houston, the Lockwood Malt Shop also serves hamburgers worthy of a drive. The dining area is tiny and not very comfortable, so takeout is even more necessary here. Tasty johnny cakes serve as the requisite cornbread. Just don’t ask for malts, as the machine has long since been broken.$
MAMA’S OVEN, 9295 S. Main bet, Murworth & Buffalo Spdwy., 713-661-3656. A well-regarded, though bare bones, stop for soul food since the days of the Oilers, it provides good food for a low price. Near Reliant Stadium, Mama’s Oven is also located next door to the popular Hank’s Ice Cream, if you have any room after the invariably large and satisfying meal.$
PEARL’S SOUL FOOD CAFE, 7730 W. Belfort bet. Fondren & Gessner, 713-773-3040. A popular stop for soul food on the southwest side, Pearl’s is one of the largest and most accessible soul-food restaurants. $
QUICK-SERV CAFE, 3713 Dowling at Alabama, 713-528-0732. After serving the Third Ward for more than 20 years at a location a few blocks away, Quick-Serv has been operating in its small, unassuming wood-framed house since 2002. It features some of the best soul food in Houston. After closing in July 2004, it will reopen under new management. $
TESSIE’S KITCHEN, 9381 Richmond bet. Fondren & Gessner, 713-977-2333. Tessie’s Kitchen is a welcome addition to the diverse array of restaurants on the western expanse of Richmond Avenue. Like many places in this part of town, decor is of secondary importance, but it is nonetheless a fairly inviting restaurant. It also serves credible barbecue. $
THIS IS IT!, 207 Gray near Bagby & the Pierce Elevated, 713-659-1608. Located near the nexus of the Fourth Ward, Midtown and downtown, This is It! is the best known and most popular soul-food restaurant in town, serving both lunch and dinner. It has been around in several locations in the Fourth Ward since 1959. Incredibly, the menu is almost unchanged since it opened. Prices have kept up with inflation, of course.$
YO’ MAMA’S SOUL FOOD, 5332 Antoine bet. Pinemont & Tidwell, 713-680-8002. Not only the most enjoyable name for a local soul-food eatery, Yo’ Mama’s serves reliably good soul food on the near north side. The cooking here is slightly less heavy than most other soul-food purveyors, though certainly not light. But, you aren’t visiting for that reason anyway. $
