Inside My Table #63 | Contents
ExcerptOn the coverLisa D. Cain is a native of Canton, Mississippi, who grew up in a small town and church and remembers picking cotton with her grandmother, walking to the country store and listening to her grandmother tell stories about her childhood. She has translated the memories of her rural Southern childhood onto canvas. Her art is represented by several galleries around the country. For additional information, contact Cain directly by email at lisacain@wt.net or by phone at 281-334-7826. |
30 REHASHED: A POT OF BEANS
What baked beans are to Boston, so cassoulet is to the southwest part of France. All versions of this traditional dish call for beans, as well as a combination of meats. Serve cassoulet with a green salad, crusty French bread and a big brawny red wine. Here are recipes from three local chefs to get you started toward developing your own version.
Recipes by Edelberto Gonçalves, Jason Blankenship and Gary Fuller
Chef portraits by Kim Coffman
34 IT’S FALL … GO FIGURE (IT OUT)
From our favorite wordsmiths, a seasonal crossword puzzle just in time to whet your appetite for the upcoming holidays and feasting.
By Keitha & Mik Kushner
36 COVER STORY: A TASTE OF SOUL
Though nearly everyone is familiar with the term “soul food,” many Houstonians would find it challenging to define or know where to go eat it. Sure, you may recognize a smattering of dishes popularly known to be associated with soul food—yams, fried chicken, chitterlings and greens—but with the possible exception of the long-standing This is It!, few soul-food restaurants are well known to Houstonians. As a humble and inexpensive cuisine, soul food is not really meant for the spotlight.
By Mike Riccetti
Illustration by Lisa Cain
68 JUST DESSERTS: HOSTESSING: A Unique Opportunity for a Sociology Experiment
Fresh out of college, our correspondent had a degree but no career plan. In need of money and something to fill all the gaps in her schedule, she took a hostess job at a local neighborhood restaurant. Thus began an experiment in human sociology.
By Sarah Vickers
13 TABLE TALK
13 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
14 HOUSTON BITES BACK
Includes Letters to the Editor, Noteworthy Openings & Closings, Tasting the Town, On The Road, Edible Etymology, Recommended Reading, Man About Town & more
26 MR. ANON: SHRIMP BOATS AREN’T A’COMIN
46 WINE & SPIRITS
New Vintage: The Latest Houston Wine Bars and Wine Shops
48 ¡SALUD!
A toast to W. Gary Eberle
50 DINING WITHOUT BORDERS
Mom Says Eat Your Vegetables
52 WHAT’S BUZZING IN THE KITCHEN WITH …
Brent Barrett
54 LISTINGS
Soulful Houston
56 RESTAURANT REVIEWS
Red Lion Pub
O’Rourke’s Steakhouse
Emily’s Bakery & Cafe
58 ADVERTISER DIRECTORY
64 THE EATER’S DIGEST
Restaurant reports from our correspondent in San Antonio and Bedford
