Inside My Table #62 | Restaurant listings
The Village Eats Out
Rice Village is the melting pot of Houston. Surrounded by older upscale neighborhoods similar in sophistication to River Oaks, this shopping area combines the commercial density of the Galleria with the trendy nightlife of Montrose and historical pride of Downtown to allow visitors a taste of our metropolis in just one bite. Restaurateurs have respected the Village’s eclectic atmosphere and offer a little something for everyone.
BENJY’S IN THE VILLAGE, 2424 Dunstan at Kelvin, 713-552-7602. The upstairs Lounge at Benjy’s offers a see-and-be-seen scene for Houston singles while the contemporary restaurant downstairs serves up Modern American cuisine that often surprises. Using fresh, organic ingredients, the chef offers a familiar American menu built on ethnic foundations, such as crisp Asian-influenced salads and Sunday brunch’s crunchy French toast topped with cool fruit and berries. $$
CAFE RABELAIS, 2442 Times Blvd. at Morningside, 713-562-6841. Besides impressing the judges of the 2004 Top 10 Wine Lists Awards it tied for #1 with two fine Houston dining establishments this little French bistro wins the hearts of Houstonians with its simple, authentic cuisine. Customers rave about the sweetbreads, duck and the restaurant’s cozy setting (which ensures more personal attention). $$
COLLINA’S ITALIAN CAFE, 2400 Times Blvd. at Morningside, 713-526-4499, and other locations. The friendly pizzeria e ristorante seems to be a neighborhood choice for casual Italian cuisine and meeting friends. The scent of melting cheese, spicy sauce and fresh bread wafts out from the open kitchen and welcomes Rice Village neighbors who come to feast on calzones, pastas and, of course, pizzas that can (and should!) be shared with the group. BYOB $
CROISSANT BRIOCHE, 2435 Rice Blvd. bet. Kelvin & Morningside, 713-526-9188. This bakery/coffee shop offers a quasi-European cafe experience via its silky Italian cappuccinos, tender French pastries and intimate atmosphere. Daily lunch specials and comfortable salads, soups and sandwiches promise a pleasant, laid-back and affordable dining experience. $
D’AMICO’S, 5510 Morningside at Kirby Dr., 713-526-3400. “D’Amico” is an old name in local Italian eateries. Today it’s incarnated as a restaurant, deli and food market: Fresh pasta is made daily, and Village regulars can order favorites like chicken piccatta and veal marsala to eat in or carry out, as well as purchase pantry staples. Note the outdoor patio where children can play without disturbing other customers. $
EL MESON, 2425 University bet. Greenbriar & Kirby Dr., 713-522-9306. Owner Peter Garcia offers Mexican, Cuban and some Spanish cuisine, as well as an award-winning wine that emphasizes Spanish wines. If you love paella, this is a good spot for it. (Plan on at least 45 minutes for preparation.) The kitchen also does a smashing whole roast baby pig. $-$$
FU’S GARDEN, 2539 University at Kirby Dr., 713-520-7422, and other locations. When Village foodies crave Hunan and Szechuan dishes, they often head to this Chinese restaurant, conveniently open seven days a week and featuring free delivery. Food is MSG free. Better yet, the kitchen uses white meat chicken and Certified Angus beef in their lunch specials and entrees. $-$$
HUNGRY’S CAFE & BISTRO, 2356 Rice Blvd. at Greenbriar, 713-523-8652, and other location. For West U residents and Rice students with low-carb lifestyles, this restaurant/catering company promises “positive eating … positive living” and offers a low-carb menu. Try the scrumptious Tuscan hummus appetizer as well as a sandwich on any type of bread or classic soup. $
KAHN’S DELICATESSEN, 2429 Rice Blvd. at Kelvin, 713-529-2891. The rumors you’ve heard about the sandwiches at this Jewish-style deli are true: They’re delicious, but enormous. How does one ever get through the famous “Olajuwon Special” to bite into the fresh, crunchy pickle waiting at the edge of the plate? If you make it home, check out the “Anatomy of a Reuben” on the website, www.kahnsdeli.com. $
KUBO’S SUSHI BAR & GRILL, 2414 University Blvd. at Morningside, 713-528-7878. A newer addition to Houston’s sushi scene, this jewel has found its home overlooking University Blvd. from the second story. Begin with weirdly crunchy seaweed salad and then try one of the many rolls. The atmosphere is serene, a good choice for an office lunch break or dinner after a hectic day. $$-$$$
MI LUNA, 2441 University Blvd. bet. Kirby Dr. & Morningside, 713-520-5025. This Rice Village tapas restaurant boasts good food and, more important, a happening social scene. Order any number of the traditional Spanish dishes, both “frias y calientes,” and don’t miss the giant paella night in the bar Tuesday evenings 6:30 to 10 pm. $$
NIT NOI THAI, 2426 Bolsover at Morningside, 713-524-8114, and other locations. Known for its pad-thai korat and other noodle dishes, this original Thai restaurant’s warmth make it ideal for quiet conversation and small gatherings. Order a few dishes and share; even the reasonably priced noodle dishes are more than ample portions for one. $$
PREGO, 2520 Amherst at Kirby Dr., 713-529-2420. We love the casual elegance of this trattoria, as well as chef/owner John Watts dedication to “promoting the marriage and enjoyment of wine and food in the dining ritual.” Pastas like smoked duck ravioli and the justly famous lasagne (with tiny veal meatballs) have few equals in the city. $$-$$$
RUGGLES CAFE BAKERY, 2365-A Rice Blvd. bet. Chaucer & Morningside, 713-520-6662. Eat a light lunch at this quaint cafe to make room for the real Ruggles experience—dessert. Pastry chef/co-owner Susan Molzan has been heaven-sent to inspire luscious pastries such as the chocolate truffle cake and white chocolate bread pudding. Remember: Here, it’s okay to spoil your dinner. $
