Inside My Table #55 | Excerpt
Houston’s Wine Lists Awards 2003
The following excerpt is from Houston’s Top 10 Wine Lists 2003, written by Charles M. Bear Dalton. (For more details on the judging criteria, honorable mentions and judges’ bios, see Issue #55, June-July 2003. View Kim Coffman’s photos online (use code MTSH5.)
HALL OF FAME
After Cafe Annie won My Table’s Top 10 wine competition four years in a row, publisher Teresa Byrne-Dodge and I decided to establish a hall of fame category. Cafe Annie became the original entrant into My Table’s Wine List Hall of Fame in 2001. This year, we’ve decided to add a second entrant: Brennan’s.
With five straight years of Top 10 finishes (including a #3, #2 and #1), Brennan’s has consistently offered a fine, well-selected list featuring a great wine-by-the-glass section and an imaginative, informative layout. The list isn’t huge, but almost all the wines deserve to be here. Brennan’s list is grouped by country of origin but within stylistic categories so, for example, California Chardonnay and French white Burgundy (which is Chardonnay) are listed together. There’s a nice selection of half-bottles and large-format bottles available. Brennan’s “Wine Guy” Martin Korson has designated several wines listed in the main body of his list as “Martin’s Affordable Alternatives.” This selection of often lesser-known wines offers high quality at affordable prices. Congratulations to Korson and restaurant owner Alex Brennan-Martin. Brennan-Martin has provided the stage and the financial wherewithal, and Korson has put together a great wine program. Keep up the good work.
My Table Wine List Hall of Fame
Cafe Annie (2001)
Brennan’s (2003)
COUNTDOWN OF THE TOP 10 WINE LISTS
- The countdown begins with one of Houston’s most-talked-about newer restaurants, Ibiza, coming in at number 10. First-year judge Melba Allen-Mauviel picked Ibiza as #5 on her card, noting, “Presentation is a bit austere, but efficient. Prices on the wine list and menu are reasonable.” Robyn Tinsley, who picked Ibiza as #6, adds, “Prices here have noticeably increased. But still a fun wine program and good selections that reflect Ibiza’s ongoing enthusiasm for quality wine and food.”
- The Rainbow Lodge rejoins the top 10 at #9—it was #7 in 1999—with a list Allen-Mauviel describes as “clean, classic and easy to read.” Randy McCrea elaborates, saying, “What an outstanding list to go with the red meat and game traditions of this restaurant! The work of previous wine caretakers has been added upon to build a truly outstanding list that offers good variety, depth and some vintage depth. And, it’s easy to read and navigate.”
- Last year’s surprise #1 wine list, El Meson, garnered three #7 votes this year to come in at #8 overall. McCrea sums it up nicely: “Talk about tough competition. Last year’s numero uno drops a bit this year. Yet, its wine list still has one of the best matches with the Cuban and Mexican cuisine of the restaurant. Strong selections of Spanish wines seem just right for the restaurant’s theme and food offerings.” In my opinion, El Meson hasn’t slipped a bit. The competition has gotten tougher, and the judges are looking at things a bit differently this year.
- Hot newcomer Hugo’s debuts at #7 and gives Backstreet Cafe sommelier Sean Beck a second wine list in Houston’s top 10. Tinsley writes, “One of the most fun, adventurous and reasonably priced wine lists in town! Creatively constructed to work beautifully with the regional Mexican cuisine here. Enough supple reds and spectacular 2001 Rieslings to keep me happy for quite a while.” This is a well-crafted list and overall beverage program—check out the margarita menu—that is perfectly suited to both the menu and venue. With the full support of owner Tracy Vaught and chef Hugo Ortega, sommelier Sean Beck has clearly become one of the top sommeliers/beverage managers in Houston.
- Cafe Rabelais garnered attention and honorable mention last year, but this year comes in at #6 as the only list to collect votes from all four judges. McCrea, who ranked Rabelais #3 on his card, says, “Choosing my top 10 was tough, but my top three was actually pretty easy. They stood out, in my opinion, head and shoulders above the rest. Cafe Rabelais hits the French target right in the bull’s eye with outstanding wines to complement a fabulous menu. Helpful notes, information boxes and recommendations ease the path for the non-Francophile as well as the aficionado.” Tinsley adds, “A good example of an authentic wine-and-food pairing—real French cafe food and a very nice all-French wine list. Surprisingly large selection is reasonably priced, with truly helpful descriptions and friendly suggestions. Makes ordering French wine easy and accessible.”
- Rotisserie for Beef & Bird and Mark’s each move up a notch from #6 and #5 respectively last year to tie this year at #4. Ironically, both restaurants picked up a first- and a second-place vote and both were left off the score cards of the other two judges.
Rotisserie for Beef & Bird was favored by McCrea and Allen-Mauviel, who gushes, “The largest wine list that I have seen in Houston yet! Superb selections that rival some of those in Paris.” McCrea adds, “If you aren’t hungry when you come here, just try lifting the wine list a few times and you’ll work up an appetite. If you want it, it’s probably listed. Vince Baker’s work is masterful, offering a wide and deep selection that also gives many choices of vintage. Many prices are high reflecting the quality and/or rarity of the wines, yet, if you only want to spend $30 for your wine, you can do that too.”
Mark’s was favored by Tinsley and myself. Tinsley says, “First class, all the way. Modern, inventive, focused, with as much attention shown to selecting the wines as is applied to the artisan quality ingredients gathered from here, there and yonder to craft the outstanding, ever-changing menu. Perfect.” By working this inventive selection onto only two pages (and a half of a page in the dessert menu), Mark’s sommelier Matthew Pridgen has done a superb job of putting together what may be Houston’s easiest-to-read and shop wine menu.
- Last year’s #4 choice Backstreet Cafe moves up a notch to #3 with top-10 votes from three judges. Allen-Mauviel writes, “A classic wine list that is very easy to read and pretty accurate.” McCrea adds, “Is there anything not good that one can say about Sean Beck’s work here? Variety, quality, good prices, easy to find your way around the list; plus news, notes and recommendations—it’s all here. The ‘love’ is evident on every page along with good values.” I made Backstreet my personal top pick on the strength of quality and appropriateness of selection, quality of presentation, and value. Sommelier Beck’s knowledge of his customer base and sense of which wines will work well with chef Hugo Ortega’s palate of flavors is as evident as his passion for quality in the wines he chooses. This is a winning program from a class organization.
- Garnering two #4 votes and a #3 vote, newly minted Vic & Anthony’s leaps to #2 in Houston’s top 10 with a knock-out opening list the likes of which I’ve never seen. The Landry’s organization’s deep pockets show here with a list Allen-Mauviel describes as “very good and well thought out. One of the best presentations of a wine list.” McCrea elaborates, saying, “Talk about a dy-no-mite wine list that pairs exceedingly well with the restaurant theme, and you have to look no further than this newcomer to the Houston scene. Red meat, red wine, is there anything else? Well, yes there is and for non-meat eaters there are also some nice white wine selections, but I’d like to see a better selection of Chablis and German whites. But red is king here, whether from France, California or Australia. You’d better bring two credit cards.” I am impressed but also curious as to how they collected all the trophies and rare wines listed here in such a short period of time. This is a dazzling, albeit very expensive opening wine list.
- Polling a #1, a #2 and a #5, My Table’s top wine list of 2003 is Lynn’s Steakhouse. Allen-Mauviel, who ranked Lynn’s #2, says, “Excellent wine list that is easy to read. Pretty classic in style and very accurate. I consider this wine list almost as impressive as my #1 selection (Rotisserie).” McCrea, who ranked Lynn’s #1 on his card for the second straight year, says, “In spite of strong challenges from others, this list continues to get my #1 vote due to its outstanding offerings that show great breadth, depth and vintage depth. The list is red-heavy as one would expect. Many choices of vintage, bottle size and price. It also is deliciously easy to navigate and offers great values, albeit many wines are expensive due to their vintage and age. A decent offering of whites provides comfort for those having seafood entrees. This is the heavy cream on the top of all other Houston wine lists!”
THE NEW AWARDS
My Table has added three new awards this year. Each was added as a result of comments made by judges over the years that they wanted to especially recognize lists that fit into these particular categories whether or not they are actually in the overall Top 10.
HOUSTON’S BEST SMALL WINE LIST
Laurier Cafe
Other notable Small Wine Lists that caught the judges’ eyes include Benjy’s, Crapitto’s, Bistro Le Cep, The Raven Grill and Farrago.
HOUSTON’S BEST WINE-BY-THE-GLASS PROGRAM
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar
Other notable wine-by-the-glass programs the judges singled out include Bistro Le Cep, Benjy’s, Brennan’s, The Raven Grill, Daily Review and Churrascos.
HOUSTON’S BEST VALUE WINE LIST
Daily Review Cafe and Mockingbird Bistro (two-way tie)
Other wine lists offering noteworthy value include Chef G’s, Mark’s, Ashiana, The Raven Grill, Da Marco, Zula and Resa’s.
