Inside My Table #53 | Restaurant listings
2002’s Best New Restaurants
Perhaps in subconscious defiance of the tattered economy and pervading sense of pessimism weave been living with for the past 14 months, Houston diners were gifted with some of the finest new restaurants in years. We wouldn’t call any of them conceptually daring (except perhaps Hugo’s), but the dozen listed below all are remarkable for several reasons, not the least being food. We traditionally single out the previous year’s best new restaurants in our February-March issue; this year, we also recall a dozen entities that foodies will miss most.
ALEXANDER THE GREAT GREEK , 3055 Sage at Hidalgo, 713-622-2778. This is not the most beautiful restaurant in Houston—it ’s awfully blue for our taste ÷ but the Greek food has been, if you ‘ll pardon the Emerilism, kicked up a notch. Owner John Gioldasis has hired a chef who stirs, bakes and grills new interest into the same old Greek dishes, managing to make them taste almost like a voyage of discovery. $-$$
AZUMA, 5600 Kirby Dr. at Sunset Blvd., 713-432-9649. One of our contributors thought Azuma had the best sushi he’s had in Houston—“I even liked their giant clam, generally not one of my favorite dishes. The service is perfectly charming.” Daring Japanese cuisine ÷ many dishes will be new to Houstonians ÷ is served in this sushi bar and robata (fireside grill) bar. $$
FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR, 2405 West Alabama in the River Oaks Shopping Center, 713-520-5959. Since its November opening, Fleming’s hasn’t obviously marketed itself as a steakhouse for women, but that’s sort of the rep it’s getting. Feminine selling points include a lighter ambiance (not the men’s-club look so many steakhouses enjoy), 100-plus wines by the glass and no cigars. It’s been packed practically from the minute it opened. Dinner only. $$$
CLOSED/*FLORIDITA SEAFOOD GRILL* , 3401 Kirby Dr. at Richmond, 713-524-1900. This is a restaurant fantasy of Florida circa 1935, and the menu by chef Joel St. John includes a seafood martini, conch fritters, crunchy coconut shrimp and steak mojito. Our reviewer’s favorite dish: pork tenderloin with blackberry-ginger glaze. It’s a product of the Truluck’s people, who also supply the restaurant with stone crab claws. $-$$
HUGO’S, 1602 Westheimer at Mandell, 713-524-7744. One of the year’s most anticipated openings was last summer from Hugo Ortega and Tracy Vaught, the couple who also operate Backstreet Cafe. Ortega and his pastry chef/brother Ruben Ortega converted this former plumbing-supplies store into Houston’s most serious showcase of the foods they carry in their hearts. We quote from Issue #50: “Consider the menu a map to Mexican eating, with specialties that include house-made queso fresco , chorizo and tortillas, chocolate ground on-premise, several ceviches, squash blossom soup, various moles and housemade Mexican candies.” $-$$
LAURIER CAFE AND WINE , 3139 Richmond bet. Kirby Dr. & Buffalo Speedway, 713-807-1632. Ready for a career change, Gary Fuller deserted telecommunications, went to cooking school and, with his wife Kelly Kimberly, opened this little French spot in January. Our reviewer praised the short and tight French-American menu (steaks, chops, seafood and risotto), noting that it reflects “a minimalist formula.” Favored dishes include a vegetable tart and sauted scallops. $$-$$$
MOCKINGBIRD BISTRO/WINE BAR , 1985 Welch at McDuffie, 713-533-0200. Taking over Quasimodo’s old location, chef/owner John Sheely shrewdly kept the flea market dcor pretty much intact while cobbling together a menu that merges American classics (e.g. short ribs, grilled salmon) with Provenale touches (e.g. a hint of lavender in the roast chicken). With its excellent service and wine list, Mockingbird was voted the 2002 Houston Culinary Award for Best New Restaurant. $$-$$$
