Inside My Table #48 | Restaurant listings
Whole Latte Love
With so many vices off-limits, a small buzz from a cup of coffee is to be relished. Which brings us to coffeehouses. “America lacks the decadence required for a truly great coffeehouse,” observed New York restaurateur Brian McNally about 10 years ago, “but we’re acquiring it, I think.” You bet. Today Americans, including Houstonians, understand how to idle over a cup of coffee with a book or a special friend. (Indeed, coffeehouses are the last great cheap date.) Starbucks has become well ingrained in our culture and needs no elaboration here, so let’s explore some other coffeehouses. Break out the biscotti!
AMY’S ICE CREAMS & COFFEES, 3816 Farnham at Greenbriar, 713-526-2697. Amy Miller’s Houston outpost differs from her Austin locations in that it emphasizes coffees as much as the ice creams. Indeed, this fragrant spot roasts its own beans, and the smell can be intoxicating. We also like the small patio. Open late. $
BRASIL, 2604 Dunlavy at Westheimer, 713-528-1993. Since its opening in 1992, this has one of our favorite places to hang out: sturdy coffees, nice wines and a unique selection of beers, not to mention a fine chicken salad. Every kind of person can be found here, from fresh-faced students to tattooed artists to professionals. There’s rotating local art on the walls, and now the owners have taken over the building behind them as an art gallery. Open ’til 2 am. $
BRIGHT & EARLY, 4825 Washington at Durham, 713-861-9588. Ben Berryhill (of Cafe Annie) and Mills Duncan (of Duncan Coffee Co.) opened this little spot last year in a converted burger stand in The Heights area. It aims for the early crowd — with Krispy Kreme doughnuts, bagels, kolaches and muffins — rather than the late-night crowd. Open at 6 am on weekdays. $
CAFE ARTISTE, 1602 W. Main at Mandell, 713-528-3704. Less trendy in style than, say Brasil, Cafe Artiste is more a true neighborhood hangout. Good coffees and teas and a great breakfast selection and Sunday brunch. There’s a separate lounging area with chairs to sink into deeply and shelves filled with books, magazines and games. Bring your laptop and stay awhile. $
CRESCENT CITY BEIGNETS, 3260 Westheimer at River Oaks Blvd., 713-520-8291, and other locations. On an expansion mode in other cities and states, Crescent City Beignets takes its inspiration from the Cafe du Monde in New Orleans. Addictive beignets are served in a bag of powdered sugar. Wash them down with cafe au lait. Good daily blue-plate specials. $
DESSERT GALLERY BAKERY & CAFE, 3200 Kirby Drive at W. Main, 713-522-9999 and other locations. Sara Brook’s whimsical coffee bar and bakery (there are also sandwiches and salads) is a hidden surprise. But if you can find Cafe Express, you can find Dessert Gallery: It’s just around the back. Wonderfully imaginative setting, and such desserts — they taste even better than they look $
DIEDRICH COFFEE, multiple locations. Very casual, well-priced gathering spots. Even teens from the suburbs come in here for a helping of caffeine-infused urbanity. Depending upon the location, there are twinkle lights in the trees. Student appeal makes these a good place for a first date. One fan describes the Montrose Blvd. Diedrich as a “place for couples to snuggle.” $
EMPIRE CAFE, 1732 Westheimer at Elmen, 713-528-5282. The coffee culture here is more hectic than laid-back, but if you thrive on that kind of buzz, this is your spot. Nicely made frittatas and gingerbread waffles and really good coffees. It’s fun to sit outside, flush up against Westheimer Road, and watch the traffic flow by and antique shoppers stroll from store to store. $
EPICURE FRENCH BAKERY & TEA ROOM, 2005 W. Gray just east of Shepherd, 713-520-6174. Part of the draw of the artsy River Oaks Theatre has to be the Epicure Bakery next door. It’s a favorite for whiling away some time until the next screening. Expect coffees, teas and a case of seductive pastries (plus there’s a French bistro-style menu), and assorted reading matter scattered about. What could be more civilized? $
EUROPA CAFE, 2536 Nottingham near Kirby Dr., 713-942-0001. This snug, homestyle cafe in the West U area blends Argentinean and European stylings. A full menu is served, but many make this a regular pick-me-up stop for tres leches cake or tiramisu and a cappuccino. $
JAVA JAVA, 911 W. 11th St.at Herkimer, 713-880-5282. This quirky Heights cafe was once a flower shop that served coffee, and it still retains that homespun earthiness. Open for breakfast and lunch, as well as for espresso, etc. Dinner served on the weekends only. Nice patio; gay friendly. $
LA MADELEINE, 6500 Woodway at S. Voss, 713-722-8449 and other locations. There are mornings it’s impossible to walk past a La Madeleine without stopping inside. The aromas of fresh coffee, baking pastries (love those chocolate croissants!) and roasting chickens is simply irresistible. The chain is known for its tomato soup and Caesar salad, but there are several varieties of coffees, too. Most have an outdoor patio. Family friendly.$
