Inside My Table #39 | Restaurant listings
Restaurants We’re Thankful For
Houston is blessed with a plethora—no, make that a pleroma—of eateries so abundant with goodness, we often choke back tears of appreciation. Some are world-class, some are humble in the extreme, but all make us thankful to live and dine out in Houston. Shall we bow our heads for a moment of silent salivating, then get on with celebrating the pride of the pack?
AMAZON GRILL, 5114 Kirby Dr. near Westpark, 713-522-5888 and other locations. Latin American cuisine conquered our palates when Michael Cordúa introduced a new way to look at (and cook) beef. Putting an emphasis on the tender in tenderloin, and showing us the right plan for handling plantains, we consider it a privilege to dine down Nicaragua-way right here in our own backyard. This breezy fast-food version of their Churrascos and Américas suits us perfectly. $
BISTRO PROVENCE, 13616 Memorial Drive, 713-827-8008. If you like yours French, a superlative repertoire of informal bistro dishes. There’s not a more pleasant summer supper than pizza Provence (cracker-thin crust, tomato pulp, ham, anchovies and black olives, plump from baking) and a cold glass of white wine. We also love the Bistro in the winter: The long-cooked stews (especially rabbit and duck) nourish and comfort. $$
CAFE ANNIE, 1728 Post Oak Blvd., 713-840-1111. Whether first visit or 101st, patrons settle in with confidence, knowing that attention to the details of fine dining is the raison d’etre for Robert Del Grande’s intelligent staff. Chef and his crew work wonders with combining ingredients that would shock a less-creative kitchen, with results that always confirm the marriage is a sure one. $$$
CARRABBA’S, 3115 Kirby Dr., 713-522-3131, and other locations. These handy Italians are so easy to fall into when you’re exhausted at the end of the workday—you love it, the kids love it—but you never feel as though you’re settling for anything less than first-rate. This homegrown chain manages never to feel chain-like. Why can’t the others do that? $$
DAMIAN’S, 3011 Smith, 713-522-0439. We salute an institution of longevity and lingering laudability. Gnocchi is still the best in town, served in the sort of romantic dining room that seems to have become nearly extinct in Houston. After a couple of visits, Damian’s will appear in that bubble over your head under the caption: My Restaurant. And your car will drive there automatically. $$-$$$
FELIX MEXICAN RESTAURANT, 904 Westheimer, 713-529-3949. We cannot imagine a world without Felix. Now gloriously functioning once again on all fire-proofed burners the chili con queso triumph of engineering is unaltered, the cheese enchiladas still cannon one to rapture, the guac still evokes an exclamation of “Wacka-wacka!” We could do without the napkin rings, but the old rickety chairs make us feel right at home. $-$$
GOLDEN ROOM, 1209 Montrose, 713-524-9614. The intimacy in this Thai eatery places one at one with the dining moments, so that ultimate relaxation is achieved. Heady soups, curries that continue to curry favor and flavor, a menu that blends tradition with on-going creativity. If reputation is everything, know that the Golden Room’s reputed excellence is deliciously layered with truth. $-$$
GOODE CO. BARBEQUE, 5109 Kirby, 713-522-2530, and other location. Addictive to Lonestarians, barbecue done right puts our Texas hearts to the twitter, gives a cotton-eyed-Joe slide to our boots and makes us want to take our mamas out to eat. Here you will find simply the best ‘que in town. Chopped beef sandwiches on jalapeno cheesebread to make our mouths water, and all the wacky Texana gewgaws to show off to wide-eyed out-of-towners. $
JAMES CONEY ISLAND, 5745 Westheimer, 713-785-9333, and other locations. Remember going with your daddy to stand in line at the original downtown location of JCI? Men in suits, carrying briefcases, waited patiently for their turn to order all-the-way hot dogs and a beer. Once served, the gentlemen sat down on schoolroom chairs to eat. The look in their eyes suggested the problems at the office paled beside a pile of hot dogs. Today, our eyes still betray our devotion, even though we know the guilty pleasure is going straight to our hips. $
Otilia’s, 7710 Long Point, 713-681-7203. Go for the cochinita pibil. The plate of food is pig ugly (if you will pardon the pun), all brown and homely, but a revelation in the mouth. Chunks of long-cooked pork served with salty mashed black beans and pickled onions (still crunchy and spiced with chiles)—it’s a sweet meat meets bean and onion orgy. It’s located on one of the most dismal stretches of road in town, but we absolutely adore this shabby little place in Spring Branch. $
Tony’s, 3755 Richmond Avenue in Greenway Plaza, 713-622-6778. The Big Daddy of Houston fine dining casts a long shadow. Unquestionably the pilot ship for the legions of fine restaurants that have subsequently sailed forth in its wake, Tony’s makes us think of Champagne and caviar, of roasted pheasant and white truffles, of the place to go when our tastebuds desire a memory of Rome, Paris, New York. Service staff of the first order—wishes are their commands. $$$
